Minimum depth for stud wall for shower enclosure - and floating?

(OK, not floating, that means something else - not connected to ceiling is what I mean)

I am going to build a stud wall for one end of my new shower - I've never done this before!

I have 20cm to play with and to build into it a shelf, if possible. Will keep it simple, probably, and have it 20cm thick at the bottom, and then reducing at shelf height. But how thin can it be? I guess width of plasterboard, tile board, and the stud work - is one inch timber enough? A 10cm shelf will probably be enough, but if I could get 15cm then all the better.

To complicate things ... (hopefully make easier for me) I was thinking of stopping the wall at shower enclosure height, rather than go to ceiling (there pipes and electrics up there, and the loft ladder goes where the wall will finish, so putting in a noggin will be a dusty headache). I have solid wall and can put a solid timber base down 20cm wide. The room side of the wall will also be 20cm deep to fix up to the shower door, so will have additional support that side. Just, is it wise to have a "floating wall" (I have no idea what these are actually called!).

Rough drawing using MS Paint ...



Here's the room at the moment - that bit of wood by the tray is just there as a door stop right now.

Again please, but in English this time.

Not sure I can!
Think it might be a case of build it, see if it wobbles, if it does, fix to ceiling ...

In true pioneering bulldog spirit. I take my hat off to you sir.

Why don't you just build a standard partition wall with ex 75 x 50mm softwood studding tied in at the ceiling?

You’re better off fixing it at the top, google some images of walk in shower screens, you could use a metal strut like they use to fix to an opposite wall. If you’re reluctant to screw into the ceiling even grab adhesive to fix the top plate is better than nothing. With no fixing at the top, it’s never going to be rock solid and if the top gets hit, it’ll move a bit, which you don’t want on a tiled wall that’s meant to be waterproof.
Also, you could increase the thickness again a suitable distance above the shelf rather than keeping it thin all the way to the top.

Cheers, think I'll do it properly - thick and fixed at the top!

I've some some that don't touch the ceiling, but they could well be brick.

Ha, couldn't find an example of what I was trying to achieve, but just came across one in an article.



Obviously, less keen on the black mould.

http://www.worldation.com/stories/t...tures-taken-by-real-estate-agents-on-the-job/

I think I can help here - first step, fit reclaimed 1950s single glazed metal windows and don’t fit an extractor

Good idea. Need to rip out all the insulation too that's taking up valuable wall space.

How does a house actually get like that? Do people live in them like that? Crazy.