Roof corner repair

Really appreciative of all comments & you must have thought me rude not to come back ... I got an endoscope to take pix in loft (but had to relearn how to get it to work & to get it to go where I wanted - not easy. In the end I taped a long thin batten to it. That part of loft isn't boarded, so had to lay some (boards), which also took time. It's also very low towards the end & had plenty of cobwebs. Got some reasonable pix, which don't look (to my untrained eye) as if timbers are sodden/damaged. But they are too confusing to post here. I also took the endoscope outside in case there was an access hole small enough for the camera where the new 'ply' is. No such luck. A new roofer will drop in 2moro after 12 to have a look. So, I hope he may unscrew the ply so I can take photos of what's beneath. Depending how much time he has, I will show him (parts of) this thread & raise idea of PVC/lead & changing neighbour's gutter ends (with permission, of course) & other ideas people have kindly thought of !
Bobasd raised interesting point: (neighbour unwittingly ...): 2016 photo seems to show a longer gutter not stopping short as it does now. At one point all the neighbours were into putting bird bristle things into their gutters to deter wood pigeons (didn't make the slightest difference), & he did have s.o. up a ladder for that, so maybe a change was made then.
You've all supplied lots of info which I need to look into properly. I rang my 'original roofer' (of last Thursday) & asked him not to send decorators tomorrow because of the rain. That'll give time for an informed view from 'second' roofer tomorrow. Either way, getting decorators in seems vastly premature, so I will prob. try to extend scaffolding period as I think JohnD suggested above. Will update later on. Tx again, Zena
 
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I'm a female &, regrettably, over 70
Dear Zena,

You posted the above, and I admire you for your tenacity.

From your postings, I am quite sure that you are much more capable than many other "persons" (whatever their gender) of a much lower age than either of us.
(I am male and, now, 83.)

With great regards.
 
FrodoOne - what a charming comment, thank-you. In turn, I have admired the data that you & other people here derive from a few photos - that's an ability I lack. Tenacity is a bit low at the moment, because I skipped lunch as thought roofer was coming at 12, but now roast is in the oven so that will sort that.

Anyway, here is update: Roofer did turn up, at 4.30pm. and thinks the job 'will probably do' for the next 3-5 years, provided external polyfilla is used as a filler (obviously, sorry!) & then several coats of Dulux Weathershield undercoat, followed by a Dulux W. gloss. Do any experts here think it makes sense to cover the whole of the ply [it is, indeed ply, acc to the second roofer] with a coat of external polyfilla (a bit like a coat of plaster) ???
Then he spent a bit of time on the virtue of installing PVC - which is a consideration, since there would be no need for scaffolding/painting for the foreseeable future. He offered to alter the gutter on the lines mentioned by datarebel (running outlet & stop end) & isn't going to charge a fortune, I just need to see if neighbour agrees.
If I go down the PVC line, then I could arguably just sand & clean the paintwork & just prime/undercoat x2 & gloss the bits where the wood is bare. Wwyd ?? best w., Zena
 
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3-5 years is not a permanent repair!
Disclaimer: I'm not a roofer
Personally i think there shouldn't be water running down the board in that area, i feel like the roof was originally laid incorrectly causing water to run down that area. Correctly laid tiles should kick up at the edge to stop water running over the side of the tile and into any timber below. Also the undercloak board under the mortar bedding should really allow any water to drip off the edge to avoid it running back onto the fascia.
If you really have some wood in a position where water will run across it in every rain, it should be fully primed and painted on all sides to have any chance of survival.
 
Polyfilla - :eek: again, they are getting worse:!: A good small local builder ( but that requires somebody with local knowledge) would sort all this out properly for you without all this veneered board whatever it is and Polyfilla nonsense. Bargeboards are bad enough on a two storey house but even worse for maintenance 3 storeys up.
 
provided external polyfilla is used as a filler

I'm gonna clean up this town with polyfilla and dulux. Yee - hah

SmartSelect_20191015-093625_Pic Collage.jpg
 
just saying but john D. correctly laid tiles or slates should sit flat with the plane of the roof.
 
just saying but john D. correctly laid tiles or slates should sit flat with the plane of the roof.
thanks bob, makes sense but how to prevent rain running over the edge onto the joinery/wall like a coping stone would on a parapet? Or is that just an inherent risk of verges?
 
If i understand you: no, there's a device that i've mentioned above in post #8 to google "kickout diverter"
 
If you accept the way the awkward way the roofs adjoin is not a very good design, what was wrong with the arrangement in the 2016 photo apart from any rotted timber that might have needed replacing:?: These added pieces of 'wood' , as well as being a complete bodge , make the arrangement worse in my opinion.
 
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Bad design three floors up your not kidding!
Why do 80% in lead and then leave the last bit exposed to the weather?
 

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