hi all , i have the above boiler, if i operate oil valve manually the boiler runs as it should. but assembled as its meant to be the thing doesnt fire because no power going to solenoid . all connections behind control box tight and continuity of cables good. has me kind of stumped. any thoughts gracefully received,thanks in advance
danesmoor 15/19 no power to oil solenoid
- Thread starter dieseldod
- Start date
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Are you sure it's not the solenoid goosed Bob.
If not control box Bob.
Hi Bob, I have a complete new pump assembly, so I swapped the new solenoid onto valve still no startup . i tested resistance of new solenoid and it seems bang on. I renewed the control box last year so I'm hoping that's OK. Perhaps the new solenoid is faulty ,neither of these hold a screwdriver upthe centre of them.
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follow the fault finding flow chart.
power to control box, then power to motor followed by photocell check for false light, if ok then power to ignition and power to solenoid. My guess is either control box or photocell ( or cable to photocell)
power to control box, then power to motor followed by photocell check for false light, if ok then power to ignition and power to solenoid. My guess is either control box or photocell ( or cable to photocell)
How are you operating the oil valve manually, diesel? Are you putting 250v straight across the coil?
John
John
Hi folks , I will have to try straight wiring it next ,what volts do I expect to be going to solenoid when its wired through the control box. I never thought about the photocell ,how do I check it? Its a short 770s,thank you kindly
These coils are designed to work on 240vAC.
With the 770 photocell, expect the resistance in total darkness to be very high, in the region of 0.4M Ohm but in bright light that should fall to around the 1.5k ohm mark - but these are general figures!
John
With the 770 photocell, expect the resistance in total darkness to be very high, in the region of 0.4M Ohm but in bright light that should fall to around the 1.5k ohm mark - but these are general figures!
John
Disconnect the photocell at the control box. If the solenoid then opens, there is your problem, new Photocell.
ok folks , i disconnected the pc annd it didnt energise solenoid , i wired the solenoid straight and it worked as it should. the initial problem was the fuse blew on boiler , i changed that and on initial try to start i gave a good spark inside the control box , i have since opened it up and there is damage to board behind contact number 5 which i could solder i reckon. the original solenoid i think had blown the fuse and me changing the fuse and re-trying it with the bad solenoid had caused this damage to board, what you think? control box is tf 832.3 i will order another one . does it have to be that exact model number or do others fit and do the job? thanks muchly for your replies guys
Stick with the 832, mate - the 830 will fit but has a longer purge cycle, if I remember.
John
John
Go for the original - 832.3.....these are reliable as a rule but I have had the odd occasion where an igniter failure takes them out.
John
John
i have soldered behind connector 5 and the fans not kicking in so unless there is a fuse to blow in the timer board where the timer is up top? what voltages should i see from the top board coming down from the timer board to the control box`?
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