LED PIR Floodlight - what Wattage?

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Hi all,

Going to replace my old 120w halogen side light with a LED one from Screwfix. Was looking at the LAP ones either 10W or 20W.

Which would be the best to go for to get the equivalent light? It would be used to just illuminate the path down side of house.

Thanks.
 
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10w will be ample. Go for 3000k warm white if you want a similar light colour. Do not buy LAP floods, they are junk. I recommend LEDVance (Osram).
 
Think as you say, I'll settle for 10w. Any more is probably overkill for the side of the house.

Do you recommend any of the LED floods that are in the usual stores? Only ask as I want to avoid buying online.

Also, as I'll be up a ladder doing the work, can I get away with drilling/screwing the lamp into the mortar rather than brick? Drilling brick is a spin at the best if times.

Thanks.
 
Consider if a floodlight is the most appropriate light source. A couple of low power bulkheads provide much better illumination without casting hard shadows.
 
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Also, as I'll be up a ladder doing the work, can I get away with drilling/screwing the lamp into the mortar rather than brick? Drilling brick is a spin at the best if times.

Thanks.

No, drill the brick. Mortar is often loose.
 
Or redrill the bracket so you can use the fixing holes in the wall from the old fittings
 
Thanks all, will tackle this when I get a rain free day off work.

Another question, in the future I was thinking of carrying on the wiring along the wall around the corner to the back if the house, and adding a pir floodlight there too.

If I just do the side pir floodlight for now, but use a junction box like this one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-3-way-tee-box-20mm-black-pack-of-1/82706

Is there a way to cap off the extra third conduit point (so it's water proof?) until I get around to adding more conduit/wiring for the second pir floodlight?

Also, stupid question, but guessing these round junction boxes don't come with terminal blocks inside. Would I be ok using my own terminal block in these junction boxes? (IE it would not be attached to anything inside, just floating around)

Cheers
 
How do you propose securing the cables into that box, they are intended for conduit use.
Personally i would if needed use a sguare box, then you have option of glanding the cable in or using conduit
 
Below are pics of the current wiring, was done before we moved in, presumably by a proper sparky.

It is tapped off a mains cct from inside the house, then goes up to a 3-way round box with the left conduit going to a porch light out front, and the upwards conduit going to the PIR floodlight. The PIR floodlight is wired to a 2-way round box, with what looks like a gland around the wire coming out.

I've not opened up 3-way box to see how they joined the 3 wires together, but guessing they would have just used terminal choc-block?

IMG-20191016-073234.jpg


IMG-20191016-073245.jpg
 
If you want the same light output as your 120w halogen you'll need more than a 10w LED. Even the 20w LAP (I agree LAP are rubbish) isn't as bright as a typical 120w linear halogen bulb.
 
LAP floodlight working well so far.

One strange thing is the led bit appears to glow slightly when not on. Is that normal?
 

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