Questions about skirting following remedial damp proofing

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Hi All, Would be great to get some advice on what we can do to fit new skirting and make good following some remedial damp proofing work.
Have moved in to a property where a new DMP has been fitted and walls have been injected to control damp. The main area is in a cupboard area where oak flooring has been lifted and remedial damp proofing has been done by a professional company. The oak floor has been refitted etc. Doesn't seem to be any current problems with damp after this work. But, now there is a gap in the plaster all the way around the bottom of the wall. The gap means that it will be tricky fitting new skirting, making it secure etc.
The question is, can we or should we be able to fill this gap with new plaster or something else? This seems like the best way to provide solid attachment for the skirting but we are wondering why this gap was left in the first place? Should the gap remain as part of the damp control measure? We assume that if the new DPM and injection has been successful (it seems it has) then filling the gap wont be a problem? Any advice gratefully received :)
 
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Thanks lostinthelight, that is an option. We were looking for some advice from a different route but do appreciate your reply. All the best frantos.
 
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One is duplicated, however, this is the sort of thing we found in the cupboard. Looks like the plaster was cut back and we don't know why unless it was to do with the damp proofing work that was done?
 
No wall should ever be plastered right down to floor level, more so with a "solid floor", as it could draw up any damp from within the floor.
 
You will need to patch/plaster the walls down another 2 or 3 inches or so, for the new skirting to fit up against, but keeping the plaster clear of floor level is the main thing. As long as you leave a gap of an inch clear of the floor, no problem.
 
OP,
thats very poor skimming -
another concern would be: was render (not gypsum plaster) & a remedial skim finish used?
the RH side seems to have been only half repaired?
there are still faint damp signs showing in the finish.
was some kind of black plastic "tanking" used - whats that black stuff showing at the inside corner and other places?

is that a room inside corner or a chimney breast recess corner?


is that a solid floor?
its fine that the DPM seems to have been loose laid on top of the concrete with the oak underlayment above the DPM?
the wood wedge must be removed to allow expansion.
 
Thanks for your comments and observations. Very much appreciated indeed. I guess what is there is what we have to deal with regardless of how poor it may be. It is clear that there is now no damp problem. It's a dry as a bone in there. Remaining damage d plaster? I'm thinking this get removed before patching up starts?
I hear you when you say there needs to be a gap, but how does one make the skirting stay in place with a significant lack of support behind it? Again, any tips gratefully received.
Looking around various blogs it seems that dry lining may be a solution?
 
There would have been a ground fixed to the wall about 50mm up from the floor...that's a 2x1" approx strip of batten screwed to the wall which the skirting is nailed to.
Once the batten is fixed it can be plastered down to.
 
That's exactly as they did it Alastair. We used to plumb the wall up off the "ground", using wooden "dots".Still do it now if required,,, real plasterers then!
 
We called them dooks... hammer, cold chisel and scraps of wood in the perps. Been a while right enough.
Hope you're keeping well Roughcaster.
 
A method I use, which gives a good class of job, is to hold the skirting level on the floor, and pencil a line on the plaster along the top.

Snip it off with a hammer and bolster (it may be ragged) and screw a wooden batten level so that the top of the batten will be level with the top of the skirting. Clean away any plaster or mortar snots remaining below the line. You can space the batten off the wall a bit if you want, it is best if the batten is flush with the finished plaster.

Patch the plaster down to the batten.

Use another batten an inch or two off the floor, spaced to be flush with the first. Clean away any plaster or mortar snots remaining below the line.

You can paint the wall, and let the paint lap onto the top batten to help conceal anything that might show.

When ready, you can screw the skirting to the battens. The battens are firmly screwed and give good support, the skirting only needs small screws into the battens. I suppose you could glue it. Screws make it very easy to remove if ever needed. If you suspect residual damp, treat the battens before fixing and use rust-resistant screws.

The space between the battens can be used for aerial, alarm, phone, speakers or LAN cabling (but not electricity as it is concealed and not in a safe zone).
 
That's what roughcaster was saying John, grounds were fixed and and the screeds were dabbed onto the walls and plumbed for the base coat.
Top tip for cabling.
 

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