Re-seal bath with 1 cm gap

The only thing with locking with the top nut is it is in a valley which allmost makes it semi captive so could bind on the tube....some washers under it would raise it clear.

Do you mean I should take off the top nut and put some washers on and then put the top nut back and tighten?
 
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Just be aware the bath will likely be fixed to the wall in two places and then tiled over the brackets.
Just take it steady and keep an eye on the gap. Would suggest starting on the legs furthest away first. Assuming it goes well then raise the legs near the bath panel.

Would recommend staying away from expanding foam. The chance of ruining your bath are very high. Stick with silicone and depending op the outcome of the leg adjustment use a PVC trim if you can’t reduce the gap
 
Before I saw the later replies I turned one of the bottoms anti clockwise but it didn't make a difference.....the bath didn't move up (or down). I guess I needed to adjust the top one.

Will give that a go.
 
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Incorrect.
For that kind of legs you first need to release the nut on the top anti clockwise (looking at it from top, so pretending the bath is not there), then turn the bottom one anti clockwise and the bath will lift in that corner..

My bad. Yes, I forgot to mention to do the top nut first, I also forgot to say clockwise when you look up from the underside.
 
Also, when you do this check the bath with some water afterwards - to make sure it still runs out.

If the gap remains large don't try and fill the gap with silicone all in 1 go, backfill and leave it to set before doing the top/front otherwise you will end up with a mess.
 
OP,
stop now.


after re-setting the nuts leave the bath legs alone.
or you could end up with a bath full of water gushing out of a disconnected waste, and leaking hot and cold supplies spraying everywhere.
and tiles popping off the wall.

you dont know how the bath is fixed to the wall - as above, any bath brackets are typically fixed behind the bottom course of tile, forcing the brackets up could pop the tile.
baths rims are often siliconed to supporting rails.
you dont show how the trap and supplies have been plumbed in.
as above, foam could stain the bath finish
and force the tub away from the wall,
and pop even more tiles.

in the plumbing trade, baths are said to be "set" - which means fixed in position. you cant go just willy-nilly raising them or you will end up cracking fitting joints and causing leaks or floods.
your bath/tile shows an even gap so the bath has likely been like that since day one - clean and dry the gap and blast it with silicone .
the whole installation looks amateurish and due for re-newal so live with the silicone seal.
 
OP,
stop now.


after re-setting the nuts leave the bath legs alone.
or you could end up with a bath full of water gushing out of a disconnected waste, and leaking hot and cold supplies spraying everywhere.
and tiles popping off the wall.

you dont know how the bath is fixed to the wall - as above, any bath brackets are typically fixed behind the bottom course of tile, forcing the brackets up could pop the tile.
baths rims are often siliconed to supporting rails.
you dont show how the trap and supplies have been plumbed in.
as above, foam could stain the bath finish
and force the tub away from the wall,
and pop even more tiles.

in the plumbing trade, baths are said to be "set" - which means fixed in position. you cant go just willy-nilly raising them or you will end up cracking fitting joints and causing leaks or floods.
your bath/tile shows an even gap so the bath has likely been like that since day one - clean and dry the gap and blast it with silicone .
the whole installation looks amateurish and due for re-newal so live with the silicone seal.

As it looks amateurish, do you really think that a cheap plastic bath hasbeen fitted with clips, batons, siliconed rims, etc.???
A good plumber would leave room for movement in all fittings, an amateur will do it without knowing.
Very little chance a few mm would make any difference, but of course after adjustment all needs to be checked.
 
If the gap remains large don't try and fill the gap with silicone all in 1 go, backfill and leave it to set before doing the top/front otherwise you will end up with a mess.

I agree that trying to silicone a large gap is more difficult than a small one but silicone doesn't adhere properly to cured silicone.

With regards to the expanding foam recommendations- if it weren't possible to raise the bath, the advantage of the foam is that it may well lock the bath in place. I am not a fan of using bath trims but a DIYer may find it easier to use them than working with a very thick bead of silicone.
 
I have used the above strip and that can work, although the area has to be completely clean and dry, rub it with a clean rag when applying to enable a good contact with both the wall and bath - it certainly goes around gaps well.
 

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