Electric shower water inlet fitting, unsure what I need.

d3v

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Hello all, I've replaced a dead Mira Zest electric shower with a similar specification Triton brand and everything is fine except for the water inlet fitting is located differently on the Triton and so the existing fittings will not reach and so I'm asking what exactly I need to buy, I've tried googling for things such as "electric shower water inlet elbow" which returns nothing definitive and I bought a 15mm flexi pipe fitting that was nowhere near a fit.

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What you need to buy is a shower with the inlet in the correct place for your pipework. What model Triton is it?
 
hi there thanks for the prompt reply it's a TRITON ENRICH WHITE 8.5KW that I got for a good price so I'm keen to keep it and instead solve this fitting issue, instead.
 
The photo with the coins is that part off the old Mira?
 
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hi there yes it is. I'm not sure why it's shaped the way it is, or weather i need it or not.
 
In your pic, what diameter and what length is the stub of pipe on the right (presumably where the cold water connects).

If it is 15mm dia and at least 25mm long then you need a pushfit elbow, 3 pipe inserts and about 300mm of barrier pipe. The instructions for the new shower should detail what connection methods are appropriate for that stub (compression or pushfit)

EDIT Just checked the manual, you need a 15mm compression elbow, a short length of tube (copper would be proper) and a new olive for the old elbow. And you don't need that white thing from the old shower
 
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No you don’t need it. Small piece of copper between elbow from wall, into a full bore isolation valve if you can get it in,copper into elbow up and copper up into a coupling.
 
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In your pic, what diameter and what length is the stub of pipe on the right (presumably where the cold water connects).

If it is 15mm dia and at least 25mm long then you need a pushfit elbow, 3 pipe inserts and about 300mm of barrier pipe. The instructions for the new shower should detail what connection methods are appropriate for that stub (compression or pushfit)

EDIT Just checked the manual, you need a 15mm compression elbow, a short length of tube (copper would be proper) and a new olive for the old elbow. And you don't need that white thing from the old shower


hi there it's 15mm according to the manual..

EDIT: you got there before me (y)

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No you don’t need it. Small piece of copper between elbow from wall, into a full bore isolation valve if you can get it in,copper into elbow up and copper up into a coupling.

EDIT Just checked the manual, you need a 15mm compression elbow, a short length of tube (copper would be proper) and a new olive for the old elbow. And you don't need that white thing from the old shower

ok I understand what you mean I'm just having trouble visualising all the individual fittings and pieces! I'd rather not try and squeeze an isolating valve as there is very little space. I'm guessing I just need the below, with a length of copper pipe and some olives? what do i need to thread in to the inlet valve of the shower? As you can see from the pic it has a threaded nut!

ae235

ae235
 
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This shower that you got at a good price- second hand was it? Reason I ask- that nut on the inlet pipe is from the compression elbow used in its first installation so will attach to your new compression elbow, you may have an issue with the olive not sealing properly (due to being used) and of course there's no room to get at the olive to remove it so if it does leak you'll need a bit of boss white on the job.

You don't need that straight coupler. You need the elbow and a length of copper pipe and a new olive for the compression elbow coming out of the wall. EDIT No you don't, you can use the olive from the elbow that will be spare 'cos there's one on the shower inlet already :)

There's not a huge amount of point fitting an isolating valve inside the shower body- if you have to remove the shower you'd have to remove the valve. If you're on tanked cold water then well worth fitting an isolating valve somewhere in the supply for the thing, if you're on mains then not so critical
 
I only said the coupler, as looking at the photo it looked like it was needed, but now I’ve had chance to look properly, it looks like if you can get the 2 aligned it’s not needed. As for the isolation valve I thought it was a water regs requirement as well as mi’s - mains fed or not. Also if you’re tank fed then you won’t get the required pressure unless a pump is involved.
 
Yes isolation valve is a water regs requirement, along with backcheck valve if the shower head can reach the shower tray. Tank- our hero might be on the bottom floor of a 36 storey block of flats with 5 bar from a roof tank- I don't know but if he is then being able to isolate the cold will be really handy for not annoying the neighbours. If he's in his own house on rising main then the water waste involved in draining the cold pipework is minimal- plus no point fitting a valve inside the shower since it'll defeat the object of the exercise. Fitting that shower is notifiable under building regs as well but I don't suppose for one second that that'll be happening.
 
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You may find you need a slight bend in that short length of pipe, to avoid it pressing against the plastic outlet pipe that connects to the shower-head hose.
 

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