OK to buy battery With Higher Amps/CCA?

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Bit of advice from the experts please. My brother's car battery has just died as they're prone to at this time of year. The spec on the current battery is 100Ah 760A. It's for a 2006 Merc E220 CDI diesel.

I've found an Exide which is a really good price, but the spec is slightly higher. It says 100Ah 900A. Or there's a more expensive Lucas with 100Ah 850A.

Which one should I go for, or should I get one same Amps (think it refers to Cold Cranking Amps) as original? Will it make any difference?
 
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they all contain the same energy [volts amps and watts]providing the peak output is the same or greater and it physically fits in [same size]it will be fine
 
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Type the car reg in here and you can get the recommended rating options and then select the equivalent in the battery brand you want.
 
Probably to late for this but my megane has what I believe is called an overfilled battery. It can only take one of that type i.e a gel battery wont do. I also believe that should I be rash enough to put a new battery in then it will have to be 'introduced' to the ecu via a reader, main dealer visit. Oh for the good old days battery out battery in.
 
I have to agree with that one.....what with smart charging alternators and stop/start systems which must put one hell of a strain on the battery, unfortunately only the recommended type will do.
Its also proving increasingly necessary to 'code' the battery to the car after a replacement - which is slowly but surely ruling me out of the motor trade equation!
John :)
 
I have to agree with that one.....what with smart charging alternators and stop/start systems which must put one hell of a strain on the battery, unfortunately only the recommended type will do.
Its also proving increasingly necessary to 'code' the battery to the car after a replacement - which is slowly but surely ruling me out of the motor trade equation!
John :)

Plenty enough old 'uns to see you out surely:D
 
For sure, I don't have any problems dealing with engine, transmission, brakes and suspension issues but it does annoy me that I can't always cancel the 'service interval' announcements on the dash :eek:
So many vehicles are now bought on PCP's with service contracts, the time for greasers like me has to be limited!
I have to say, spending my time fixing garden machinery is certainly more pleasurable.....I can generally sort them within a day, or hire out a replacement if I can't.
John :)
 
Probably to late for this but my megane has what I believe is called an overfilled battery. It can only take one of that type i.e a gel battery wont do. I also believe that should I be rash enough to put a new battery in then it will have to be 'introduced' to the ecu via a reader, main dealer visit. Oh for the good old days battery out battery in.

if it ever becomes popular tech, all the Kwikfits and Halfords will be equipped with a machine to do it. like they have a laptop that plugs into your car diagnostics.
 
Its also proving increasingly necessary to 'code' the battery to the car after a replacement - which is slowly but surely ruling me out of the motor trade equation!
John :)
I can understand the inconvenience and expense being annoying, but are they necessary?
I'm probably talking out of my backside, so call me appropriate names, but isn't it possible to use cables and crocodile clips to connect each terminals of both batteries and the appropriate cables to maintain constant connection of both batteries to the car's electronics whilst the cables are transferred from the old battery to the new one?
The car will remain blissfully unaware of you changing the battery and so won't demand 're-coding' or whatever it's called!
OK, rather more messing about, but saves an expensive visit to the main dealer.
 
i will bow to others superior knowlage as things seem to have move on drastically in recent years :eek::eek:
 
I can understand the inconvenience and expense being annoying, but are they necessary?
I'm probably talking out of my backside, so call me appropriate names, but isn't it possible to use cables and crocodile clips to connect each terminals of both batteries and the appropriate cables to maintain constant connection of both batteries to the car's electronics whilst the cables are transferred from the old battery to the new one?
The car will remain blissfully unaware of you changing the battery and so won't demand 're-coding' or whatever it's called!
OK, rather more messing about, but saves an expensive visit to the main dealer.
How I wish I could confirm this either way, but sadly I can't....all I can do is theorise!
Anyway - the story.....
Audi Q7 - a huge vehicle which I think was a V6. The problem was it would only just crank over quick enough to start, - never failed but never inspired confidence. It had been in to a bodyshop for a replacement door and had been repeatedly started with a start/charge pack over that time. Rightly or wrongly I suggested that the battery would have had enough - the car was 7 years old with a low mileage. (60k).
So - along came a spankers Yuasa battery, at great expense and in it went. Before doing anything I connected my Draper memory saver pack into a 12v socket to retain things like the infotainment codes, central locking and so on.
Again, the cranking was slow :eek: so on went my smart charger and 4 hours later it informed me that the battery was fully charged.
The car cranked over just fine - quite a difference :)
However, after 4 days we were back to the usual slow crank :(.
On the battery was marked 'necessary to code' so into Newcastle Audi it went. After that, the car has performed just fine so the only conclusion I can come to was the alternator was 'instructed' by the ECU to charge at a higher voltage than usual o_O and therefore keeping everything happy!
Who knows....I can't find anyone to talk to who really knows what its all about.
John :)
 
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