Bathroom extractor fan only works when light is off! (pictures and video included)

Joined
29 Dec 2019
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi there

Recently noticed that the extractor fan in the bathroom had slowed down when light was on (LED lights on ceilng) but then worked fast again as soon as light was off. Thought it was only a simple fan problem so I decided to change the fan today.
An original fan was Vectaire mf100t which is now discontinued, so I bought a Manrose gold 100t instead today at B&Q.
My bathroom fan and light has a fan isolator switch with a separate pull cord switch. (i.e. the fan and light come on at the same time).

Replaced a fan and re-hooked up all the wires into the fan (L, SL and N), but only found that when I pulled a cord to turn on a fan/light, only light came on but a fan didn't work.
When I pulled a cord again to switch off the light, fan started working (but at very slow speed. Unusable speed) and light didn't go off completely but flickered.
Can't really figure out what the problem is - could it be a pull-cord switch defect or some circuit fault/poor wiring? No loose connection that I can see at this stage.

Any help will be grately appeciated. Thank you in advance. Jon

(inserted pictures are the new fan, pull cord switch and isolator. A video of problem here
).
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8699.JPG
    IMG_8699.JPG
    139 KB · Views: 653
  • IMG_8700.JPG
    IMG_8700.JPG
    140.1 KB · Views: 541
  • IMG_8702.JPG
    IMG_8702.JPG
    185.1 KB · Views: 661
Sponsored Links
sounds like a high-resistance joint. Probably a loose connection. Start at the switch, then the ceiling rose, then any others.

A multimeter would be invaluable.
 
sounds like a high-resistance joint. Probably a loose connection. Start at the switch, then the ceiling rose, then any others.

A multimeter would be invaluable.

Thanks for your reply John.
When you say the switch, you are referring to a pull cord switch?
 
Sponsored Links
Unless Manrose have altered their PCBs recently, you have wired it up incorrectly.

Pictures of the switches show the black core used as Neutral, and the fan has the black core in the centre, which is not the neutral terminal.
 
Unless Manrose have altered their PCBs recently, you have wired it up incorrectly.

Pictures of the switches show the black core used as Neutral, and the fan has the black core in the centre, which is not the neutral terminal.

Hi there
Thank you for your reply.
The black cable is in SL, grey in N and brown in L.
I was simply guided by a video on youtube (
) - the same model and at 2:16, you can see the guy putting all the cables into the fan PCB.
As you can see, I'm a total novice in this - can you perhaps advise me which cables should be where?
Thank you
 
Grey to switched live
Black to neutral
Brown to perm live is a guess

Check the cable at the fan with a meter to confirm
 
any and all switches.
I've just fitted a similar unit and you have terminated the cable as: Brown = Live, grey = Neutral & black = Switched Live. However in the back of the isolator switch it looks like the blue Neutral has a black wire associated with it, implying the black wire is Neutral.

Without being able to accurately identify all the wires in the isolator switch and for that matter the wiring at the light I will guess you need to reverse the black and grey wires at the fan. I think the cable should be terminated as: Brown = Live, grey = Switched Live & black = Neutral.


Edit: I started my post about 10pm and got side tracked with arrangements for tomorrow. I see other posts saying the same thing.
Haviing looked at the isolator again, if as I predict the choccy block in the pull switch has a black and a blue I reckon it confirms the wiring changes offered above.
 
Last edited:
Looking at the isolator switch I find it hard to come up with any other circuit than this:
upload_2019-12-30_0-10-12.png
 
Wow thats brilliant. Im just overwhelmed by you guys input and help! Really appreciate it. Was lying down on my bed and thought i would open up the isolator again. Cant open the fan as a baby might wake up and missus will kill me!
I have checked now in the isolator that brown in top L1 common, brown in bottom L1, grey in top L2 and bottom L2 common, blue and black are in top N. Pictures attached. Thank you guys
 

Attachments

  • E9E73D3B-3686-4496-AA59-FF04DCCE06C1.jpeg
    E9E73D3B-3686-4496-AA59-FF04DCCE06C1.jpeg
    232.3 KB · Views: 478
  • 0618DAEB-4C53-4DEE-85C6-6BC3AD34382C.jpeg
    0618DAEB-4C53-4DEE-85C6-6BC3AD34382C.jpeg
    192.8 KB · Views: 568
  • 3DF883B8-6A26-44D4-BE74-9B54DB8EE872.jpeg
    3DF883B8-6A26-44D4-BE74-9B54DB8EE872.jpeg
    170.2 KB · Views: 565
Hi Jon,

Looks like everything will work correctly once you make the changes inside your fan.

I have noticed that your isolator switch looks like it has a metal face in the photos. If so, you need to connect the earth wires into the earth connection on the switch face. The screw is missing, but you may be able to use a screw from one of the unused connections of the switch.

Regards,
Huggybear.
 
With all the love and help, the fan and lights are working well now guys. Really appreciate the help and advice.
As you guys pointed out, it was the misplacement of black and grey cables.
Thank you all
Jon
 
With all the love and help, the fan and lights are working well now guys. Really appreciate the help and advice.
As you guys pointed out, it was the misplacement of black and grey cables.
Thank you all
Jon
You're very welcome and thanks for letting us know it's resolved.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top