Blocks - so many choices! What do you recommend?

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The designer has spec’d this yes, but I’m pretty sure stuff like this is just copy pasted for most builds.
Why do you think this and that the designer has not specified for your specific project :?: Have to agree with woody on this one.
 
Even if the designer had specified something, if Andy’s going to spend months humping blocks up and laying them, what’s wrong with revisiting various options and choosing a nice block to work with, as long as the requirement for u value etc are still met?
 
Even if the designer had specified something, if Andy’s going to spend months humping blocks up and laying them, what’s wrong with revisiting various options and choosing a nice block to work with, as long as the requirement for u value etc are still met?
What is being gained by changing from aerated concrete block inner leaf or lightweight aggregate block outer leaf :?:
 
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I’m more referring to the variety of types/sizes within that spec (eg turbo vs standard length, different manufacturers) which is still a fair question to ask.
 
Also the downstairs rooms are a kitchen and garage.

From some of the reading I've done, I believe aerated blocks aren’t good for wall fixings. Therefore wall units in the kitchen and various hooks, shelves, etc in the garage might mean a non-aerated block are preferable for the internal skin?!
Just fitted a kitchen in an extension with thermalites. In some ways easier than brick, just make sure you spend the money on good plugs and screws
 
I’m more referring to the variety of types/sizes within that spec (eg turbo vs standard length, different manufacturers) which is still a fair question to ask.
Thermalite Turbo is a specific block. Standard block size 440mm x 215mm x 100mm unless you want an even better U value with a thicker block. I accept that there are various makes of lightweight aggregate block, let's choose a compressive strength in N /mm2 to start the ball rolling.
 
Just fitted a kitchen in an extension with thermalites. In some ways easier than brick, just make sure you spend the money on good plugs and screws
Certainly easier than drilling into brick but you wouldn't normally find brick walls internally nowadays.
 
Tarmac Hemelite Standard Block 3.5N 440 x 215 x 100mm
4642.jpg

  • Description
  • Specification
Lightweight aggregate block.

  • For use in walls above and below ground and in beam and block floors
  • High level of technical performance
  • Ideal for finishing with render, cladding, plaster or drylining
  • Manufactured under a Quality System complying with BS EN ISO 9001
  • Conforms to the 'Special Category of Manufacturing Control' requirements
Product Code: BLDH3540

Possibility for external leaf - other makes of block are available :!:
 
Like I’ve explained, I wanted to make the build easier for myself if I can and there are lots of different blocks (of the same size), so looking for user experiences.

The designer has spec’d this yes, but I’m pretty sure stuff like this is just copy pasted for most builds...I had no input at the time and I value the input from people on this forum if I choose to go down the self build route.
The crucial thing is that you have paid someone to design and specify an extension. That means to think about the materials and design. If you want changes then you should go back to the designer, if he's not designed to your brief then go back to the designer. I know copy and paste goes on, but if you (or anyone else reading this) thinks that their designer has just been lazy, go back to them. Don't accept crap work.

Right then, if you are building this yourself, then it's not just the blocks. Rigid insulation is not very tolerant of blockwork that is not dead flat and you always need additional ties to hold the boards back. So if you are self building, then is that the best product to use? If not, then you may be looking at high performance blocks, thicker blocks, wider cavity, additional internal insulation, or even aerated blocks externally. If you are using aerated blocks, then the mortar strength becomes important to prevent shrinkage cracking, so the expanse of blockwork and openings becomes a factor, or should bed reinforcement be added?

Also, what about cost and availability? What blocks can you get locally, and what cost are you prepared to pay? If you change the insulation and the blocks based on opinions on here, what does that do to cost per m2?

The whole point is that it's not just case of swapping a block, and I would discourage anyone who thinks like that. And that is why the designers job is not just cutting and pasting from their last set of plans, and I'd also discourage any client from thinking that is all it is, or that it is acceptable.

You really want a concrete block externally, so any 3N concrete will do. That's all I could really say, as there are many factors that will influence the internal block choice, so you will need to define those factors first.
 
If you want to go into every possible permutation for the construction of an external wall it could go on for some time :!:
Now that people have made various comments what is wrong with the designer's specification with the external leaf clarified as the Hemelite lightweight aggregate block above for example ( available from Jewsons, Liverpool )? Obviously the use of partial fill cavity insulation assumes decent workmanship on the blockwork.
 
Why do you think this and that the designer has not specified for your specific project :?: Have to agree with woody on this one.

I think this because always from the start the project was going to be rendered, and is drawn as such on the plans. Therefore his spec mentioning facing brickwork or rendered blocks suggest that the spec wasn’t written for my specific project.

Plans were approved a couple of years ago and designer is no longer available, so here we are...
 
Even if the designer had specified something, if Andy’s going to spend months humping blocks up and laying them, what’s wrong with revisiting various options and choosing a nice block to work with, as long as the requirement for u value etc are still met?

Exactly why I’m asking.

This place is often a great source of assistance for diy’er, and I’m very happy to receive support and alternative opinions from this users here.
 
Taking into account the comments that have been now, do you still have any queries on the blockwork , which I think was the original query :?:

Probably, but I think this thread has run its course.

My thinking is 7n fibolites exterior, and 3.5 toplites interior (above dpc). Will look for 50mm insulation boards - noting woody’s point about ensuring decent/flush workmanship to avoid potential issues.

Thanks to all
 

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