Planing down a door then fitting hinges and hanging

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I've jacked up the door to the top (using a hammer and mini crow bar thing and put two 1mm packets jammed into top of door then marked where the hinges need to go on door with hinge positions in lining. Is this a good way to do it?

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Will then plane down parts of door which are less than 2mm from lining.

Haven't cut botton off with circular saw yet. Should ibdo that before sides?
 
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It’s one way to do it , order of trimming does not matter, if it’s a hollow door will only be 20mm of timber at the bottom edge .
 
It’s one way to do it , order of trimming does not matter, if it’s a hollow door will only be 20mm of timber at the bottom edge .
The door lining must be warped as there's 5mm space for door at top and cant get the bottom of door in. Do you think run a 2mm space down door lining and mark with a sharp pencil? That way when planing I can get it to the right spacing.

Are electric planes worth it? Thinking of getting one. I guess they have uses other than just doors
 
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Bought the dewalt electric planer. Brilliant.

Just wondering if I need to drill lower for the lock? (Where I've put the arrow in the picture.) The old lock is higher in the lining. I know these old interior doors only have solid wood to drill onto in certain places.

I also noticed the gap on the lock side is 4 or 5mm but on the hinge side 1 or 2 mm. I planed a lot off the lower hinge side. Wonder if I did too much with my new toy




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Cheap doors will have only one lock side indicated on the top of the door .Would fit lock centred between lower panels (arrowed).
 
Cheap doors will have only one lock side indicated on the top of the door .Would fit lock centred between lower panels (arrowed).


In the end I just put it where old latch in lining was.

The latch thing which u push through for handles was a bit off 90 degrees so handles were a bit wonky; guess that's just practise though.
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I've worked out its rubbing on the door stop; it just closes but it's putting pressure on the door itself. Shall I move the door stop back a couple of mm?
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Yes. Far easier than adjusting the hinges. Before painting I aim for a gap of 1.5 to 2mm between the stop lath and the face of the door to avoid binding
 

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