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How much is it on average to get the council to inspect a rewire and provide a Certificate? Just in case he withholds it from us.
Rewire Regulations
- Thread starter musashi79uk
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How much is it on average to get the council to inspect a rewire and provide a Certificate? Just in case he withholds it from us.
Don't know why that submitted 3 times.
Don't know why that submitted 3 times.
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Ive asked him to put the lights back to their original positions, fix a socket in the conservatory, and hide the light switch wires in there. Once he does that, I'll pay him £880 of the £1380. Then when he puts the claim in and we get confirmation by post or email, I'll pay him the last £500 within 48 hours.
He's rejected the proposal, pointing to his T&Cs on a website, which are only visible by good rummaging on Google as his invoices specify a different website that no longer exists.
This is his latest response:-
"In every new installation the sockets have got to be at disabled heights. I've been an electrician over 20 yrs and have done 8 yrs at college so not sure who has informed you but there wrong. We alway centralise lights for maximum light. Its an old way of doing it putting them to the side. We have worked very hard we will set a claim up. It's not a problem but it's not a simple thing. You have to take pictures and there's a lot of paperwork and they make the decision, not me. This is why we have T&Cs. If anything happens we're covered. The holes in the walls are so we can fish cables through at different angles and we needed to do every hole that's there and we usually make a lot more holes. I'm happy to make a claim no problem but it's only me that can do it so there's no point giving you my insurance details as they won't speak to you."
He's rejected the proposal, pointing to his T&Cs on a website, which are only visible by good rummaging on Google as his invoices specify a different website that no longer exists.
This is his latest response:-
"In every new installation the sockets have got to be at disabled heights. I've been an electrician over 20 yrs and have done 8 yrs at college so not sure who has informed you but there wrong. We alway centralise lights for maximum light. Its an old way of doing it putting them to the side. We have worked very hard we will set a claim up. It's not a problem but it's not a simple thing. You have to take pictures and there's a lot of paperwork and they make the decision, not me. This is why we have T&Cs. If anything happens we're covered. The holes in the walls are so we can fish cables through at different angles and we needed to do every hole that's there and we usually make a lot more holes. I'm happy to make a claim no problem but it's only me that can do it so there's no point giving you my insurance details as they won't speak to you."
It is he who is wrong. As I've said, even if it were a 'new installation' (which it isn't) the stuff about socket heights is guidelines/recommendations, not 'requirements'.
Well, for a start, to say that's "how he always does it" is very different from saying (or, at least, imply) that it was 'required'. There are absolutely no rules or regulations such as he suggests/implies. As for the practice of 'putting them to the side' being an 'old way', there was (and still is!) a fairly good reason for doing that, particularly in bedrooms. Particularly in bedrooms the normal practice used to be (and still may be for some) to put the ceiling light fairly near the window, so as to avoid shadows of naked bodies (or whatever!) being visible on the curtains from outside!
Kind Regards, John
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Maybe ask him to read the first four words of his statement? If only he'd have listened to your request before starting the work - you'd have more budget for the kitchen you want too!
For the record if I personally have to cut holes in plasterboard to gain or make an access hole I cut this with a multitool at an Angle of roughly 45 degrees rather than perpendicular to the board so I end up with what i describe as a "Trapezoid block" of plaster board that can be stuck back into the the gap it was cut from - it's not always perfect but often a little filler here of there and it's almost unnoticeable.
I'd still like a photo of the inside of the board, if you're confident enough it's just two screws to undo. Power off if you're really worried. It will give us all a true measure of how good this chap is.
For the record if I personally have to cut holes in plasterboard to gain or make an access hole I cut this with a multitool at an Angle of roughly 45 degrees rather than perpendicular to the board so I end up with what i describe as a "Trapezoid block" of plaster board that can be stuck back into the the gap it was cut from - it's not always perfect but often a little filler here of there and it's almost unnoticeable.
I'd still like a photo of the inside of the board, if you're confident enough it's just two screws to undo. Power off if you're really worried. It will give us all a true measure of how good this chap is.
Ask the electrician to tell you which regulation requires the sockets to be put at 450mm.
I have also been an electrician over 20 years and have never carried out work to such an appalling standard.
I haven’t done a rewire for years now but when I did, we would always walk round with the clients and agree the position of every accessory before we started, and have a chat about what damage we would have to do, but in all my years I’ve never yet had to wreck a coving as has unfortunately been done in this instance.
I have also been an electrician over 20 years and have never carried out work to such an appalling standard.
I haven’t done a rewire for years now but when I did, we would always walk round with the clients and agree the position of every accessory before we started, and have a chat about what damage we would have to do, but in all my years I’ve never yet had to wreck a coving as has unfortunately been done in this instance.
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So he's said he'll come over today at 430pm, move the ceiling lights, hide the conservatory switch cable and move the socket in the conservatory.
He says he'll also bring the insurance claim for to fill in for the damage to ceilings, coving and decking. Once that's filled in, he wants the final £1400 transferred and he'll leave the test certificate.
He says he'll also bring the insurance claim for to fill in for the damage to ceilings, coving and decking. Once that's filled in, he wants the final £1400 transferred and he'll leave the test certificate.
Also he must notify the work through his CPS (NAPIT, NICEIC, etc). You will get a building regulations compliance cert in the post. Also the LABC will be notified.
It will look a bit like this.
this must be done within 28 days of completion of works.
It will look a bit like this.
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I've spoken to the CAB. They've suggested getting him back (he's coming today) to rectify the electrical work we're not happy with, pay him when it's complete, then write to him regarding the issues about the damage with quotes to rectify it.
CAB have referred the T&Cs issue to Trading Standards.
CAB have referred the T&Cs issue to Trading Standards.
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Well, he never turned up. He "can't find" his insurance documents
Well, you've already got the CAB and Trading Standards on the case, so maybe it's now time for 'the media'?
Kind Regards, John
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Should he be listed on the NICEIC website? Searching for his name or company name doesn't wield any results. Searching with his postcode doesn't bring up any of his details either.
And he's not listed on the Napit website?
I've asked about how he trades. He says he trades under a company name but isn't a limited company.
Has he ever claimed to be a member of NICEIC? As has been said before, even if he is 'legit', there are at least two or three other organisations of which he could be a member.
That, in itself, is not unusual - there are millions of non-limited 'companies' out there - really just a self-employed 'sole trader' who trades under a 'trading name' (which most will regard as a company).
Kind Regards, John
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Such as "My Name T/A My Company Name? “
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