Cue pedant with inevitable comment about the reliability of manufacturers' instructions......
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What are the rules on replacing/removing/installing an electric oven?
- Thread starter d000hg
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**yawn**
... unless he's talking about a driving licence (or isn't in the UK), I don't know what sort of 'licence' a UK electrician could have
Indeed so, and you'll also sometimes hear about the converse - 'registered electricians' who are not competent!
It means that one has to be 'competent' (in the everyday sense) to do the work safely, which will usually require at least some understanding of basic electrical principles and skills, and certainly cannot be guaranteed to be possible solely on the basis of manufacturer's instructions (even those which have been translated reasonably well from the Chinese, Polish or whatever!).
Kind Regards, John
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Winnie has found one example of MIs that are not correct. He keeps wheeling this example out and spouting that obviously) all MIs are not to be trusted.
crystal clear?
Where would you buy a 16A fuse to go in the FCU?
I'd leave a 13A in there.
Then you would not be complying with the (incorrect) manufacturers instructions.
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despite their physical size, usually ovens are a lot lower current than you'd think. hobs use more. Electric showers are the worst though.
Same old same old, although I am not a qualified leccy I know that it is essential to have a good understanding of kilowatt loads and the size of cable required to handle such loads per my bro who was a proper leccy. There have been thousands of electrical fires over the years caused by people who lacked such knowledge.
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In theory in Wales we can use an extension lead in a kitchen without notifying, but if we want to fix the lead to the wall and put cable cleats in the cable to keep it neat and away from water, we should notify.
In practice no one in their right mind would pay over £100 to council to fix an extension lead. some times you need some common sense.
In practice no one in their right mind would pay over £100 to council to fix an extension lead. some times you need some common sense.
Although we rightly take a lot of care to ensure that cables are adequate in size for the currents they are to carry, I do wonder whether many fires have actually resulted from under-sized cables, alone, since I think that a cable would probably have to be seriously under-sized it to become hot enough to start a fire. I would think that poor connections (of adequately-sized cables) are a far more common cause of fires.
Kind Regards, John
That obviously depends upon how one interprets 'fixed wiring' but, as you say, no-one in their right mind would (in Wales) go to the cost of notifying the use of an extension lead in a kitchen just because the sockets and/or cable were in some way 'fixed' to the room. In England, of course, the issue does not arise.
Kind Regards, John
As far as I know stoves and ovens etc depend on the current they draw. 13A can be connected to a socket circuit and if it comes with a plug can be plugged in but complicated as the on off switch should be accessible. The plug is ok as it has a 13A fuse in it. An alternative is a 16A MCB which effectively means it's own feed from the CU.
A model from europe may draw 3.6kw so needs it's own connection to the CU as does the usual electric stove and hob set up.
The site guide is clearer on this area as it mentions that kitchens these days consume far more power than they used to. One catch with that is some electrician will fit a 20amp circuit for kitchens on the basis that all it needs is a few sockets. They might fit a separate circuit for fixed equipment though. So in real terms this needs considering and also anything else connected to the circuit. These things seldom draw full power all of the time but if there is a number of them, stove, hob, drier, washing machine, kettle in my case an espresso machine, somebody might even plug in an electric fire................................
Built in units using a plug ? Common sense says don't do that unless the plug can be seen and has a switch. Some things may come fitted with plug and mention some where in the instruction that this is for testing.
These are all shoulds rather than shalls other than drawing too high a current but they are pretty sensible ones. Likely to turn into shalls at some point.
I haven't noticed any changes about new circuits not being notifiable. Kitchens are no longer special areas - might be so sockets etc can be re arranged. Any new circuit is notifiable and may mean a CU upgrade for some. The notification aspect is to ensure the design is done correctly. It's not just a case of saying my wire resistance is such and such so it's ok.
So keep adding spurs and all will probably be ok. Personally I wonder.
The UK being 230V is a spoof. It might apply to places that have recently built or replaced substations. In practice all that has happened is that the limits have changed so in practice many if not all people will measure close to 240v. It's just unlikely to go as high as it once could. Some areas of europe have a similar problem with 220v staying within the "harmonised standard". No real change as it would cost too much. So they have shifted the tolerance based on 230v so that 240 is ok.
A model from europe may draw 3.6kw so needs it's own connection to the CU as does the usual electric stove and hob set up.
The site guide is clearer on this area as it mentions that kitchens these days consume far more power than they used to. One catch with that is some electrician will fit a 20amp circuit for kitchens on the basis that all it needs is a few sockets. They might fit a separate circuit for fixed equipment though. So in real terms this needs considering and also anything else connected to the circuit. These things seldom draw full power all of the time but if there is a number of them, stove, hob, drier, washing machine, kettle
in my case an espresso machine, somebody might even plug in an electric fire................................Built in units using a plug ? Common sense says don't do that unless the plug can be seen and has a switch. Some things may come fitted with plug and mention some where in the instruction that this is for testing.
These are all shoulds rather than shalls other than drawing too high a current but they are pretty sensible ones. Likely to turn into shalls at some point.
I haven't noticed any changes about new circuits not being notifiable. Kitchens are no longer special areas - might be so sockets etc can be re arranged. Any new circuit is notifiable and may mean a CU upgrade for some. The notification aspect is to ensure the design is done correctly. It's not just a case of saying my wire resistance is such and such so it's ok.
So keep adding spurs and all will probably be ok. Personally I wonder.The UK being 230V is a spoof. It might apply to places that have recently built or replaced substations. In practice all that has happened is that the limits have changed so in practice many if not all people will measure close to 240v. It's just unlikely to go as high as it once could. Some areas of europe have a similar problem with 220v staying within the "harmonised standard". No real change as it would cost too much. So they have shifted the tolerance based on 230v so that 240 is ok.
Well…it CAN be plugged in to a ring final, but SHOULD it be?
The guidance in BS7671 is that loads of more than 2KW should be on their own circuit, rather than plugged into an RFC.
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