Dewalt cordless hammer drills

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Hi All

I am looking at buying a cordless hammer drill, and was hoping for some first hand experience

Although there is always potential for a brand war, I am very much down the dewalt route and for convenience with batteries etc, wont be considering anything else.

For context, I am about to start a 1930s house renovation. My £50 titan SDS is on its last legs (done well mind!), and I recently borrow a friends cordless milwaukee cordless SDS and was impressed.

I am trying to decide between the DCH 133 and DCH 273. The obvious differences are widely available, so I was just wondering if anyone would share their experience with either/both.

Thanks in advance.
 
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i just looked at the j rating and blows per min and decided to go corded in the end and got the
https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product...0-Sds-Hammer-800-Watt-240V-Quick-Change-Chuck
Price was also quite a factor
considering a lot of the jobs, i did not think a cable would be as big an issue.
looking at the cordless , i needed to spend a lot more
I also liked the option of having a standard chuck so i could use normal drills if needed for wood etc, with large drill sizes
2.8J as opposed to 2 on other models

I had looked at the Borsch , even though all my other tools are dewalt , but the reviews where not great

Its just for a DIY use though.

Milwaukee are very highly rated and i also looked into those , but just too expensive and did not want a new battery system, as already have 7 cordless dewalt tools now

i also plan to get the 3 speed cordless drill to replace my current dewalt cordless drill, just looking for a good deal at the moment
 
Hi

Thanks for the reply.

I had considered going with a corded one, but have decided to bite the bullet and pay the money to go cordless. I am what i call a glorified DIYer. I work ad hoc with a carpenter around my shifts for a bit of pocket money and because I enjoy it (Hobby Job). No qualifications, just an extra set of hands and doing what i am told when/how i am told to do it! Its basically DIY training!! All his gear is 110v, so there is always a bit of battle of getting leads etc where we need them! Cordless would be without doubt the most convenient.

I'm not brand loyal with corded kit at all, and am only limiting myself to dewalt with cordless because of convenience.

As a side note, I bought the Dewalt DCD996 Combi Drill - Great bit of kit.
 
yea, i keep looking at the 996 , but wanted other tools first, now i'm at the stage where if the price is right would get it. Almost purchased last year at FFX show, maybe this year if they actually do a deal, next weekend.
i also looked at the antivibration as well, as i used a cheap one on some concrete flooring to remove high spot and level before screeding and that was quite hard going
i think 240v maybe an issue on some sites as well, plus PAT testing
 
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i think 240v maybe an issue on some sites as well, plus PAT testing
Some? Try any site of any size, most shopping centres, most public buildings, etc. About the only places you can get away with 110v these days are domestic jobs and small local builder stuff. The PAT testing thing is one reason why a lot of trades are going cordless over 110v - cordless tools arent subject to PAT testing - that and the fact that dragging a 110 volt transformer around (or alternatively relying on some second rate over taxed main contractor's site supply to actually deliver over 95 volts) isn't much fun
 
cordless tools arent subject to PAT testing

Surely the chargers are though?

That said, chargers don't have an earth cable (nor do most/many* powertools) meaning that the PAT test simply consists of a visual examination of the flex/tool.

A couple of years ago I popped into a pub in Enfield and asked if I could plug my phone's USB charger in. The very surly barmaid told me that I could only do so if it had been PAT tested. I finished my pint and walked out...


*My 240v Festool dust extractors have an earth but none of the PlugIt leads have an earth. Fortunately my work is almost exclusively domestic.
 
Yep, if you use a charger on site then it does indeed need to be PAT tested. The solutions are to take sufficient batteries (I'm currently at the 10 mark for Makita 18 volt batteries plus sundry others for pinners/nailers, laser, etc) and/or have a charger in the van

Pretty much all of my work is trade, so the rules apply
 

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