Thorn 6ft twin ballast wiring

They use 70w greenstock shatterproof tubes. I have a 6ft t12 which didnt work either.
Sounds like that Cap, need to see inside 1 really, if that cap can be cut off and the 2 wires joined it will prove the chokes are good, and then you can just get new Caps.
As someone posted earlier they are 400V rated Caps.
 
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outlast your current fluorescent fittings
:LOL::LOL::LOL:

The Thorn fittings mentioned could be half a century old. Any LED replacement will NOT last that long, I guarantee it.

By the way what lamps are you fitting, i find 6ft the most troublesome size going, just using 70w tubes can be a nightmare in older 75w fittings.
What issues are you having? 70w tubes work perfectly in switch-start fittings originally intended for T12 75w tubes
 
Both those ballasts will be fine for a single 6’ tube in conjunction with a switch or electronic starter, as per the drawing from fluorescence earlier in this thread.

I think you are over complicating things and confusing yourself with talk of triple and series ballasts.
 
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:LOL::LOL::LOL:

The Thorn fittings mentioned could be half a century old. Any LED replacement will NOT last that long, I guarantee it.

I bet you’re still fitting GLS bulkheads everywhere cos there’s nowt bloody wrong with em
 
Maybe I am confusing things. Just indulging a hobby fixing lights but these ones are a bit more broken than I was expecting.
 
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I've had a look inside and it is a lead lag circuit. I didnt bypass the capacitor but I'll order one and see if it does the trick. The battens aren't quite as old as I thought, ie they are 2x70w t8 thorn emi.

Thanks for your help everyone.
 

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I've had a look inside and it is a lead lag circuit. I didnt bypass the capacitor but I'll order one and see if it does the trick. The battens aren't quite as old as I thought, ie they are 2x70w t8 thorn emi.

Thanks for your help everyone.
The capacitor was manufactured week 19 of 1985 so 35 years old now. Do the fittings have Vivatronic starters fitted (rectangular beige plastic boxes) or normal replaceable cylindrical types? Also them ballasts are the ones that are probably the best ballasts ever made, they seem to last pretty much forever.
 
Glow bottle starters. I changed about 7 that didnt work, most of them the wrong type for a 6ft like the one shown, although that one still works. I think people see 80w and think it'll work for a 70w which it does for a short time and then seizes.

Yeah I saw the word vivatronic and wondered why it mattered if it's a lead or lag circuit.
 

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Heres one of the battens with a dead cap. The tube that's on only works if you jiggle it. I genuinely thought these were t12 battens and got hold of some t12 bulb holders but they are too big. Cost more in delivery charges so no point sending them back.
 

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What do you mean by T12 lamp holders and how were you going to make them fit? The fittings you pictured have what's known as 'oval' lamp holders which are proprietary to this fitting and will already accept T12 or T8 tubes. The starters you've pictured are cheap rubbish and will fail prematurely even when used correctly, I recommend using electronic starters which are much more reliable, can double lamp life and will strike the tube first time every time. I recommend removing the tube and making sure the pins are in good condition, if you're having to wiggle the tube to start it, it's possible one of the pins is loose and is not making a good connection in the lamp holder.

Starter: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELECTRON...947627?hash=item23ba916aeb:g:-9AAAOSw-EBZp9vj
 
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Can you still buy oval shaped lamp holders?

There are 2 fixtures there with bad connections, one has a noticeable burn mark if you take the tube out. I just made an error and bought the wrong bulbholder without checking. Lesson learned.
 
I pay around £40 inc vat for an led fitting which will out perform and outlast your current fluorescent fittings.

I’ve installed loads which are in use every day for prolonged periods, and have never had one fail yet.
Sadly I've had exactly the opposite issues.
First complaints seem to be the flicker, quickly followed by the horrible multiple shadows and reduced light levels. In larger building we find we're installing aditional fittings to fill the shadows that are now reported, also on a different phase to reduce the flicker effect.

I estimate around 1% of replacements under warranty and 5% in the following year.

I further estimate 5% reversion back to fluo by the end of year 2.

The reversion to fluo costs less than the LED conversion, complaints & faults stop and longevity returns.

I haven't yet found a LED conversion which out performs fluo without additional fittings which seems to be self defeatist and uneconomical.

3 workshops I've worked in had 40W 600mm LED replacement panels in suspended ceilings, No way did they come anyway near the performance of the 72W flou fittings for perceived light levels or shadowfree working. Lucky one of them had the old fittings dumped in the recycling skip and about 1/3rd of them were salvageable by the staff and added to the LED system in one area. The difference is clearly obvious.

One building I get to work in now keep a stock of LED tubes as they need replaceing so frequently, previousely we used to relamp every 4 years with very rare failures between.
 

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