Piping help

Hi

I have to fit a new monobloc tap under my kitchen sink. I have the new tap and flexi tails. Existing tap has copper rigid tails and have been soldiered in to a join (i’ve’d marked it yellow on the pic) I haven’t done this type of job before but will give it try. The piping on the left hand side of the pic looks pretty straight forward - would cut below the join debur it And connect up to my male monobloc flexi using olive and compression end. The one on the right is the dilemma ... It has two as the two elbows with a tiny bit of copper pipe into the valve . The valve looks a bit like it has leaked in the past too . I am not sure whether to take of the valve and put a flat faced valve in and but another-set if female monobloc tails ... and do it that way. Not even sure they’ll reach . Or maybe but some copper pipe and put it iinto the existing isolation valve and then do like i did for the left one. What is best? If i change the isolation valve i will shut the water off which i can do and clean it all up.. note i have not done anything like this before ... but not really had the chance either ( i have the tools but never used them). I would say i am a competent diyer but plumbing isn’t something i’ve done that much of but i am keen to do it. I assume the idea is to have the least amount of joins as possible? Have added more pics to show the piping .

If the isolation valve/s are leaking then deal with that. The right hand pipework looks to be too low to connect to ,so add a short length of copper pipe directly to the isolator with olive and nut, and if the Flexi hose has a compression fitting on its end ,connect it to the short copper pipe.

Thanks Terryplumb. Wrt to the right side. If i remove the elbows and the tiny 2cm bit of copper from the existing isloation valve , is it best practice to put a new olive on when connecting the new piece of short pipe to the existing isolation valve?

Yes, always use new olives .

The olive forms the seal, when the joint is tightened, so you may indeed find the old olives are clamped firmly to the pipe and will only come off with the aid of a hacksaw! As Terry has said, use new olives, and if you want to, use a smear of 'Potable Water' jointing compound to help make the joint. Only time to reuse an existing olive would be if you were to replace the iso valves, then the bottom nut and olive can remain in situ, (use these instead of the nut and olive on the inlet end of the valve).

Note: PTFE on the threads as some do, is pointless and achieves nothing with a compression joint, and dont overtighten the joints or they'll leak.

So today i did the job. I’m pleased to say it seems ok. The right side connection was the fiddley one as the tail was long enough but i have a male end tail wanting to connect into an isolation valve , so i had to put in a short piece of pipe .

i turned the compression nuts 2-3 quarters of a turn . The right one weeped a bit but did a little nick and seems . I also put the potable water jointing compound on it aswell before tightening it up.

thanks for you help on here Terry Plumb. I have never done this job before and the advice gave me the encouragement to do it Have attached sone pictures

And Hugh aswell

Mottie, is that your cat?



Andy

diylady said:

So today i did the job. I’m pleased to say it seems ok. The right side connection was the fiddley one as the tail was long enough but i have a male end tail wanting to connect into an isolation valve , so i had to put in a short piece of pipe .

i turned the compression nuts 2-3 quarters of a turn . The right one weeped a bit but did a little nick and seems . I also put the potable water jointing compound on it aswell before tightening it up.

thanks for you help on here Terry Plumb. I have never done this job before and the advice gave me the encouragement to do it Have attached sone pictures

Click to expand...

Well done you

Tidy job there, seen worse from 'professionals'. Glad to be of help.