When joining two sections of 112mm half round guttering using union brackets how true does the cut have to be to stop the water from draining through? Do union brackets compensate for untrue cuts? There is a lot I don't know about guttering
Newbie question about guttering
- Thread starter HawkEye244
- Start date
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So long as the ends cover the rubber gaskets.....and continue to do so when things expand- then all should be well.
Its always good to cut them square though, sand the rough off and install. Some brackets are marked so you know where to measure to.
John
Its always good to cut them square though, sand the rough off and install. Some brackets are marked so you know where to measure to.
John
Bearing in mind upvc gutter expands/contracts along its length so ideally the cut should be square and butted up to the line with its neighbour.
As long as the gutter has enough overlap over the rubber seal and allowing for contraction it will be fine.
As an aside Black and brown gutter expands/contracts more than white or gray.
As long as the gutter has enough overlap over the rubber seal and allowing for contraction it will be fine.
As an aside Black and brown gutter expands/contracts more than white or gray.
Good call about the colouring, I never suspected that!
Presumably the darker colours absorb more heat.
John
Presumably the darker colours absorb more heat.
John
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Careful with the brackets, dead brittle if they are elderly or cold!
John
John
Thanks a lot, any advice on this plan I have to run guttering from the whole perimeter of my shed as per photo?
I'll start with the downpipe because it's the low point. I'm hoping this is right.
I've got old and probably brittle guttering already, I just need to buy the corners and brackets etc.
Downpipe terminate in an open water tank used to store the rainwater.
I'll start with the downpipe because it's the low point. I'm hoping this is right.
I've got old and probably brittle guttering already, I just need to buy the corners and brackets etc.
Downpipe terminate in an open water tank used to store the rainwater.
Is there any chance of having two running outlets and two water butts? That's a pretty tortuous route for guttering - trying to give it enough fall from the highest point without water remaining in it for ages! This in itself isn't an issue but there will be leaf blockages and overflows etc which could cause some rot over the years.
Regarding fall, the ideal is for the water to drain but take the solids with it, rather than water to shoot by leaving the solids behind. By solids I mean vegetation or debris from the roof covering or whatever.
I'd also check if the old guttering is compatible with the proposed new brackets....some types seem to need notching to fit.
I should also say, what sort of roof do you have......obviously a flat roof doesn't need guttering all the way round!
John
Regarding fall, the ideal is for the water to drain but take the solids with it, rather than water to shoot by leaving the solids behind. By solids I mean vegetation or debris from the roof covering or whatever.
I'd also check if the old guttering is compatible with the proposed new brackets....some types seem to need notching to fit.
I should also say, what sort of roof do you have......obviously a flat roof doesn't need guttering all the way round!
John
Good call about the colouring, I never suspected that!
Presumably the darker colours absorb more heat.
John
indeed. The free flow gutter by Freefoam is co extruded. White on the inside and coloured on the outside and offers up to 40% less thermal movement than a solid coloured gutter. The neoprene seals don’t dry out like rubber. Only thing is it’s a tad thinner than, say, Marshall tufflex but it’s a good system.
How about this as an option?
I'll send a photo of the guttering I have and you can tell me what you think of it.
Burner, it's a flat roof. I've run it all the way around to capture as much rainfall as possible but now you've highlighted this point perhaps I should find which way the slope runs and just fit guttering there instead? Which is I'm assuming what you're suggesting should be done? Is there no benefit to fitting it everywhere to capture drips from the fascia?
For sure, there should be some fall on the roof, albeit slight.
That’s where you want the guttering, there’s no real point in putting it all the way round and as for the facias, just keep them protected with stain or whatever.
John
That’s where you want the guttering, there’s no real point in putting it all the way round and as for the facias, just keep them protected with stain or whatever.
John
AFAIK the only gutter that needed notching was Marley 4" back in the 70/80's p*xy stuff - and it's brackets are smaller than new gutter, but they'll be knackered now anyway.I'd also check if the old guttering is compatible with the proposed new brackets....some types seem to need notching to fit.
John
Another tip: Fit all the GB's to a line except for the unions (on long runs) as these will foul the line. Rather, fix the onions* using your eye after the gutter has been clipped in. A lot of onions end up too low.
*has become a bit of a joke now at National Plastic Stafford.
*has become a bit of a joke now at National Plastic Stafford.
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