End to end straight line cracks on ceilings

The cracks were there before we moved the boiler and water cylinder to the loft, after the boiler was moved, we then had the ceiling taped, skimmed and painted. Within a month, the cracks re-appeared and looks worse. No work was done within that month apart from plumber might have walk in the loft to check the plumbing.
 
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To be quite honest, that looks like cracks between 2 sheets of plasterboard. If you look at the photo of the plaster close up, you'll see the old undercoat plaster from years ago. Those cracks are far too straight for it to be a structural problem. This is what I would do.
Re-screw the plasterboard to the joists along the cracks, checking other areas too. Always push the boards upwards when adding screws, it gives a tighter fit.. Check for, and remove any loose areas of plaster along the cracks and then tape "ACROSS THE CRACKED JOINTS", all the way across the room,, from one side of the room to the other. Each piece of tape should be around 6 inches in length. Make sure that each piece of tape sits close, side by side, and all the way ACROSS the ceiling cracks. This may seem overkill, but it works, I do it all the time using mesh tape. By taping ACROSS the cracked joint/s, it's a far stronger job than a single length of tape, plus the ADDITIONAL/ EXTRA screws added earlier, will pull the plasterboard tighter to the joists. To hold the bits of tape in place if required , mix a small amount of Bonding with PVA added, and spread a little across the tapes. This will all be hidden when plastered.
When this is all prepped, PVA the ceiling, adding a red food dye to the white pva, turning it pink, so you can see exactly where you've been. Put on a coat of Bonding Coat plaster, maybe 2 coats, over the whole ceiling, onto the WET/TACKY pva, ( never plaster onto dry pva). Better to PVA the ceiling in sections, then put on the Bonding coat. When the whole ceiling has been coated with PVA and Bonding Coat, let it set, then put on 2 coats of Multi Finish, work at it until it sets, then job done, ready to paint, . This is exactly what I do all the time.
100%.
 
When we had a re-skim on a late 50's house, some cracks appeared. I then screwed all the boards up as it seems the old nails had worked loose over time and with loft activity. Any proud nail heads then got tapped right in.

Plasterer came back and repaired, and no issues in 3.5 years now
 
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When we had a re-skim on a late 50's house, some cracks appeared. I then screwed all the boards up as it seems the old nails had worked loose over time and with loft activity. Any proud nail heads then got tapped right in.

Plasterer came back and repaired, and no issues in 3.5 years now

Well said Phatboy, plasterboard from the 50's and 60's was far far superior to the plasterboard used nowadays. It was far stronger and heavier than plasterboard of today, but it was fixed to the timber joists etc with nails, not screws. Over the years, these nails in the ceilings, may have not only worked loose because of the activity above, rooms etc, , but also, some of them will have rusted, plus, mess, dust etc can also build up in the ceiling cavity above the plasterboard, and can add to the weight.
Anyone planning to repair/replaster an old, cracked plasterboard ceiling, such as we are talking about on here, providing the plasterboard is in good condition overall, would be well advised to spend a couple of hours or so, putting "plenty of 35mm plasterboard screws", through the old plasterboard, into the ceiling joists, which will really strengthen the old ceiling overall. Always take care with screws/nails near the ceiling lights/ cables.
After screwing and re-taping the old plasterboard ceiling, as Roughcaster said, the ceiling, being far stronger now, is ready for re-plastering. Preparation is the key.
 
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IMO my guess is that the crack is because the plasterboard join is not even on a joist. Go in the loft and find the join to see if it is two pieces of plasterboard that are butted together but not on a joist
 
IMO my guess is that the crack is because the plasterboard join is not even on a joist. Go in the loft and find the join to see if it is two pieces of plasterboard that are butted together but not on a joist

Well worth a look.
 
your wasting your time and effort faffing about with stuff that old. overboard the lot with nice long screws , crossing the joists and cracks with full boards . tape with a good quality scrim and skim the lot. i havent read extensively but i think i saw ARTEX and 60’s in the same sentence. don’t go raking it out. And your surveyor needs the sack for suggesting it!
 
Well worth a look.
if the joins are not on a joist it wont necessarily crack .... your more likely to get the cracks your describing when theres 2 timbers next to each other, ie to support the weight of a block wall above, and the edge of each board ends on each timber.
 

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