Mortar gun coverage

regdorp · 28 Apr 2020

For those who have used mortar guns before, how much coverage am I likely to get between refills?

I've got a Roughneck mortar gun to point about 5 sqm of brick slips that have been laid on the wall (like tiles). 20mm deep, standard brick size. I've seen all the tips on lime mortar, wet mix, platiciser etc.

Thanks!

regdorp · 28 Apr 2020

Forgot to say, 10mm gap between bricks.

cdbe · 28 Apr 2020

I've only used mine a few times (and for gap filling rather than pointing) - can't really help that much but my experience (with fairly sloppy sand and cement) was that if you fully fill the tube the water is squeezed out with the first half of the contents of the tube, leaving a hard "plug" that won't squeeze out - you need to empty the tube back into your bucket and remix it. Didn't seem as bad if you only half filled the tube.

^woody^ · 28 Apr 2020

More useful measurements would be

time between your fingers cramping up and hurting like hell - 3 minutes
time until the water separates and the nozzle clogs - 1.5 minutes

The amount of cement slurry that will spill over and smudge the brick faces will be measured at about 60% too

All mortar guns based on mastic gun designs are totally crap

catlad · 28 Apr 2020

Well practice dear boy practice!
One bucket full should do. I too got very frustrated the first time I used one but with a bit of practice there good.

^woody^ · 29 Apr 2020

I have and use when need be, the Pointmaster gun, which is the same concept but is a piston rather than a trigger type and the tube is fatter to allow the mortar to be pushed out easily. I did a mini-review in the tools section years and years ago, but it looks like its gone for some reason

Anyway https://pointmaster.net/ and you wont beat it for a simple gun

Great for pumping mortar in to joints when packing beams and cut out bricks and blocks.

But the flaw in the whole concept is that you need the mortar runny for the gun, but semi-dry for the joints to stop it staining the wall and being able to compact it well in the joint.

I'd only use it for "olde worlde" work, in summer or where the wall is a bit of a mess to start with!

kingandy2nd · 29 Apr 2020

^woody^ said:
I have and use when need be, the Pointmaster gun, which is the same concept but is a piston rather than a trigger type and the tube is fatter to allow the mortar to be pushed out easily. I did a mini-review in the tools section years and years ago, but it looks like its gone for some reason

Anyway https://pointmaster.net/ and you wont beat it for a simple gun

Great for pumping mortar in to joints when packing beams and cut out bricks and blocks.

But the flaw in the whole concept is that you need the mortar runny for the gun, but semi-dry for the joints to stop it staining the wall and being able to compact it well in the joint.

I'd only use it for "olde worlde" work, in summer or where the wall is a bit of a mess to start with!

Great recommendation - I've just ordered one for myself

mikeey84 · 29 Apr 2020

I read a tip somewhere that worked for me- make sure you use plactisiser, and use a mixing paddle, whipping the mortar up like you would plaster.

This makes it flow much more easily, and I certainly suffered less of the dewatering effect you can see.

catlad · 29 Apr 2020

I'm holding out for the cordless version

regdorp · 4 May 2020

As no one answered the initial question, thought I'd update it on here for anyone who searches in future having now done the job. Pointing 10mm gaps, 20mm deep and standard brick sizes I got a little under 0.5m2 covered for each tube in the roughneck mortar gun.

It worked well, runny mix that only just held it's form, plenty of plasticiser. Make sure when you have filled it to hold it upside down and trigger it over the bucket until it comes out the nozzle as this ensures it is compacted and there are no air/water bubbles. A bit fiddlyhaving to keep refilling, but a far nicer finish than me trying to do it (badly) the old fashioned way.

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Mortar gun coverage

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