I think we are saying thesame thing excuse my terminology, so the master socket will just act as a junction box that is easier for a novice like me to wire/understand, so what I will have is a twisted pair directly for broadband coming off the box and then 2 x junctioned connections for 2 seperate phone line extensions, is this correct ?
Connecting the pole back into the house
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I think we are saying thesame thing excuse my terminology, so the master socket will just act as a junction box that is easier for a novice like me to wire/understand, so what I will have is a twisted pair directly for broadband coming off the box and then 2 x junctioned connections for 2 seperate phone line extensions, is this correct ?
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Yes
If you can daisy chain those two, that would be the "proper" way to do it. But, yes, you can do that if needed, using 8B jelly crimps inside the master.
Hi All.
I happened to be around when a BT engineer came around to fix an issue for a relative, so whilst he was there I asked some questions and also discussed the proposals on this post to him, he has suggested a different approach to what was originally discussed in the posts earlier, so I decided to sketch this and get some feedback from others. I cannot afford to wire it wrongly and suffer low speeds etc.
I dont know why he suggested that the master socket should be downstairs instead of the loft, could be that if an engineer came out to troubleshoot an issue, it will be easier looking downstairs than going into the loft, who knows. He did say something that if there was a fault with the phone line, I can just remove the face plate of the master box or something.
Does the above look right, he said that if i went ahead with the first proposal which was to wire from the loft directly to a box downstairs, and then broadband, he said I need a different wire to do that (a wire with a plug in place already). This is possible but a lot more hassle as i would need a wider wood drill bit to drill the stud walls and have to also source a long phone cable instead of the 100m drum i already have.
I happened to be around when a BT engineer came around to fix an issue for a relative, so whilst he was there I asked some questions and also discussed the proposals on this post to him, he has suggested a different approach to what was originally discussed in the posts earlier, so I decided to sketch this and get some feedback from others. I cannot afford to wire it wrongly and suffer low speeds etc.
I dont know why he suggested that the master socket should be downstairs instead of the loft, could be that if an engineer came out to troubleshoot an issue, it will be easier looking downstairs than going into the loft, who knows. He did say something that if there was a fault with the phone line, I can just remove the face plate of the master box or something.
Does the above look right, he said that if i went ahead with the first proposal which was to wire from the loft directly to a box downstairs, and then broadband, he said I need a different wire to do that (a wire with a plug in place already). This is possible but a lot more hassle as i would need a wider wood drill bit to drill the stud walls and have to also source a long phone cable instead of the 100m drum i already have.
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Because that's the 'normal' way it would be done. I thought you didn't have enough length on the cable to do that without an extra join somewhere?
Yes, removing the lower half of any modern-ish master socket disconnects your own internal wiring from the line, so they can test just their line by itself, and rule out any fault caused by poor homeowner wiring.
That's not right. I posted a link to a picture in post number 15, which shows where to connect CW1308 cable for the broadband. Where the router is going, you need an RJ11 faceplate. Both of these need 24AWG solid core wires in their IDC connections. And pre-made lead with connectors on will be 26 or even 28AWG and be stranded wire, so, definitely wrong.
Mostly, yes, stick to the blue pair for all of it, don't switch to orange pair after the master.
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Just to add, if he thought you had, say, an NTE2000, and didn't know you were going to use an NTE5C Mk4 VDSL plate, then he'd be right, but then you'd need to find a solder version of an RJ11 socket, or just have a loose fly-lead coming off the skirting board somewhere near the router, which would look rubbish!
It'd just be easier to use a microfilter where the router was going and do it the usual way, because a made up lead with plugs wouldn't be twisted pair, it would be flat wire, which you don't want.
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Thanks for this, so you are saying everything in the sketch is correct apart from the 2 x orange cable coming off the master socket and daisy chanined for the 2 telephone lines ? Here you want me to use blue instead of orange ?
My cable comes across from the pole and I put my NT5 in the loft. My router is plugged directly into the NT5, from where it supplies wifi and wired LAN. One wired LAN cable goes down to the ground floor, to a second router, also providing wifi and more LAN sockets. All works a treat.
From the NT5, I have 6 extension sockets, almost one in every room in the house. These I installed pre-wireless phones, but are not so necessary now.
The advantage of the NT5 in the loft, is that there are no joints at all between pole and NT5. We used to have constant problems with cabling down to outside wall coming adrift and becoming damaged by the weather. All cables and connections are now indoors and we have had no faults in 40 years, since I did it this way, but...
Should a fault develop, I can just remove the NT5 faceplate and plug in a normal phone to test/ investigate the line.
From the NT5, I have 6 extension sockets, almost one in every room in the house. These I installed pre-wireless phones, but are not so necessary now.
The advantage of the NT5 in the loft, is that there are no joints at all between pole and NT5. We used to have constant problems with cabling down to outside wall coming adrift and becoming damaged by the weather. All cables and connections are now indoors and we have had no faults in 40 years, since I did it this way, but...
Should a fault develop, I can just remove the NT5 faceplate and plug in a normal phone to test/ investigate the line.
Very similar to what I want to achieve, the only difference in my case is that I need the router downstairs, I have far too much IT kit to wire them all in the loft. I wish I could TBH (its much more neater than what I am about to embark upon). I need easy to access to patch network cables in etc, and need to be able to troubleshoot things rather than going into the loft.
Thinking about it, your setup is very nice as all the messy cables are well hidden away, I have an enclosed staircase with a door for it downstairs, so thats where I want to hide all cables, and put the router there also. Its also the middle of the house, so wifi signal is fine. One quick question, as you have the router in the loft, whats the signal like to say the other end of the house downstairs ?
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Yes.
Daisy chained is better than 'star wired' like your diagram. The IDC slots on the back of your extension sockets are designed to accept two wires in each slot, and NOT three. So daisy chained is easier because you won't need jelly crimps.
They look like 8A crimps and not 8B crimps(which take three wires each). You'll need 8B crimps to 'star wire' the extensions as per the diagram.
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He's probably never taken any notice of the extra connection for the broadband, it is, after all, for the homeowners use and not his use. He'd normally only connect to A and B on the back, and re-instate any existing extensions on the 2,3 & 5 connector on the 'middle bit' (i.e. the 5C part).
Sorry I got my terms wrong concerning daisy chaining and star wired, the jelly thing has 3 holes for a cables and not 2.
It is useable, but much better from the downstairs router. Loft router manages to provide coverage to loft, first floor, my garage and most of the garden. Ground floor router covers the entire ground floor and the first floor with a good signal. The thing is - where the master socket is fitted, is normally where the main router normally has to go. BT Openreach will not appreciate trying to trace faults, where the line goes a long way into a house via a complicated route to the master socket.
A LAN cable is specified to easily run 100m without speed any degradation.
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