Overtile or start from scratch

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
7 Jun 2015
Messages
219
Reaction score
4
Country
United Kingdom
Hi, i was going to regrout the bathroom as the old grout was all discoloured, i thought it would be a straightforward job but when is ever? It turns out all the tiles on main wall and side wall are loose and are just sitting there and the grout is the only thing holding them together (just about)
The bathroom was tiled about 10 years ago, the tiler had just tiled over over the original, i am not sure what primer he used but it smelled like plaster and it was yellow, whatever it was i don't think it was the correct stuff, consequently all the tiles had to come on the main wall, they all came off clean so there was not much mess, i scraped all the crap off the original tiles to make it look somewhat aesthetically pleasing for now.
I was thinking of retiling over the original tile but using the correct materials, i hear mapie evo grip could be a good primer for this situation and bal single part flexible adhesive, would this work or will it likely end in tears? The original tiles are solid to the wall and reasonably flat. The tiles i intend to use will be 250×200mm white tiles, so the same size as the originals.
Is tiling over tiling acceptable or am I better ripping the old tile out and reboard with water proof backerboard?
The good news Is this is not the only bathroom in the house, so there is no pressure to get this fixed.
Here is some pics
20200508_114055.jpg these patterned tiles are the original to the house (1998 approx) as i say these are solid to the wall and reasonably flat. Better still does anyone recognise these tiles so i could just repair the damaged parts?
20200508_114106.jpg this is the shower wall you can see the new tiles, they are all loose and the only holding them together is the grout.
We had this bathroom done about 10 years ago by a tradesman, i am not sure what went wrong, whether it was the wrong primer or cheap adhesive or a combination of both? Maybe some water over the years has got behind the tiles and upset the adhesive?
What is the best course of action, can i retile over this or am i better ripping them off and starting again?
Cheers
 
Sponsored Links
20200508_123815.jpg this is what the majority of the newer tiles looked like at the back.
Thanks
 
if you intend leaving or reusing the old suite I don’t see much point in ripping the originals off if they’re sound.
like you said , if you use the correct adhesive theres no reason you can’t tile over them .
 
if you intend leaving or reusing the old suite I don’t see much point in ripping the originals off if they’re sound.
like you said , if you use the correct adhesive theres no reason you can’t tile over them .
Hi, i would rather not have to take off the old tiles but if I leave them on i want to make sure i am using the correct stuff so this does not happen again. What do you professionals use when tiling over tile? As described the tiling are the same size as the originals certainly nothing heavy. The budget is tight so any remedial will be done in stages. As there is no pressure would i be better starting from scratch? I am happy to do either, what is the best solution in your opinions?
Thanks
 
Sponsored Links
if the budget is tight and the originals are sound your better off tiling over.
taking the originals off could open up a can of worms . if they’re tiled directly on plasterboard it will most likely end up in you having to reboard.
 
If the old tiles are tiled over plasterboard and you double up on them then there's every chance that the extra weight might pull the p/board away from its fixings.
Very bad advice to double tile on p/b.

Not saying its likely but If there is a "can of worms" hidden behind the p/b then you dont leave it there perhaps causing further, more serious damage - you eliminate the "can of worms".
for instance:Hidden mould is a serious health issue, & rotting studs can cause Dry Rot.
Very shoddy & ignorant "advice".

OP,
Is the plasterboard fixed to studding or masonry or both?
The tile back adhesive failed because it was not mixed correctly or properly combed on with an appropriate 6mm x 6mm notched trowel.
Plus, The skim of adhesive looked more like pre-mixed rather than bagged powder.
Moisture resistant backerboard is the modern preference.

OP, do what professionals do, & rip out back to studs and/or masonry & start from scratch.
 
op..it’s good advice . ignore him . if it’s not lime render he hasn’t got a clue.
 
If the old tiles are tiled over plasterboard and you double up on them then there's every chance that the extra weight might pull the p/board away from its fixings.
Very bad advice to double tile on p/b.

Not saying its likely but If there is a "can of worms" hidden behind the p/b then you dont leave it there perhaps causing further, more serious damage - you eliminate the "can of worms".
for instance:Hidden mould is a serious health issue, & rotting studs can cause Dry Rot.
Very shoddy & ignorant "advice".

OP,
Is the plasterboard fixed to studding or masonry or both?
The tile back adhesive failed because it was not mixed correctly or properly combed on with an appropriate 6mm x 6mm notched trowel.
Plus, The skim of adhesive looked more like pre-mixed rather than bagged powder.
Moisture resistant backerboard is the modern preference.

OP, do what professionals do, & rip out back to studs and/or masonry & start from scratch.
nobody said it’s plasterboard . i was speculating and pointing out pitfalls.....read it properly instead of jumping in making a fool of yourself again. it’s been tiled over for the past 10 years and hasn’t budged.
 
If the old tiles are tiled over plasterboard and you double up on them then there's every chance that the extra weight might pull the p/board away from its fixings.
Very bad advice to double tile on p/b.

Not saying its likely but If there is a "can of worms" hidden behind the p/b then you dont leave it there perhaps causing further, more serious damage - you eliminate the "can of worms".
for instance:Hidden mould is a serious health issue, & rotting studs can cause Dry Rot.
Very shoddy & ignorant "advice".

OP,
Is the plasterboard fixed to studding or masonry or both?
The tile back adhesive failed because it was not mixed correctly or properly combed on with an appropriate 6mm x 6mm notched trowel.
Plus, The skim of adhesive looked more like pre-mixed rather than bagged powder.
Moisture resistant backerboard is the modern preference.

OP, do what professionals do, & rip out back to studs and/or masonry & start from scratch.
Stop with your nonsense of shooting yourself in the foot - perhaps you will read the post referred to.
Please read all posts before commenting on them - it really helps - & then come back & apologise................
wonder who said this
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Sponsored Links
Back
Top