DP control switch

I can see what looks like overheating on the supply side live conductor. Far too much copper showing as well, whether you replace it or bypass it, it needs to be taken off and the conductors cut back to loose damaged bits and reterminated properly
 
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I don't really see what difference it will make - even if there is a fuse.


Are you thinking that anyone who installs an FCU on the ring, rather than a DP switch, will not have a socket and plug for the appliance?

Aren't we frequently told that appliance (isolation) switches on ring circuits should not be FCUs?
 
I don't really see what difference it will make - even if there is a fuse. Are you thinking that anyone who installs an FCU on the ring, rather than a DP switch, will not have a socket and plug for the appliance?
Yes - hardwiring a kitchen appliance to an FCU (hence no fused plug in the equation) is far from unknown - I'm personally aware of several examples.
Aren't we frequently told that appliance (isolation) switches on ring circuits should not be FCUs?
We are 'told' that they shouldn't be FCUs IF they are feeding a socket into which a fused plug is to be plugged (since the duplication of fuses is unnecessary). However, it's a totally different matter if the appliance is hard-wired (rather than supplied via a fused plug), in which case an FCU is clearly required.

Kind Regards, John
 
Surely the fuse is in the DW plug.

OP said it is a DP switch. It does not look like an FCU.
Think your right, the connection layout does appear to be like a DP switch, I dont do domestic work and have never seen a DP switch on a ring main to be honest
 
When I was an appy in the 80's, a firm I worked for did FCUs above and flex outlets below. I have also worked for a firm who did FCUs above and 15A sockets below.
 

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