Toilet removal

Dylan123 · 22 May 2020

jctilingservices said:
I am assuming that you are tiling the floor ? if so, are you overboarding before tiling ? if so, taking into account the thickness of the board, adhesive and tiles, you may have to change your soil pipe connector for a flexible one to accommodate the difference in height between soil pipe and wc. also remember you will be needing to mark and drill through the tiles to fix toilet to floor, as as previously said, you will need to fix cistern at new height. this is all assuming you are tiling the floor . also if tiling the floor, it does look like you will need to change either the tails or get longer flexi pipes for the handbasin, as yours do not look like they have enough movement in them to cope with the difference in height. as I say, this all depends on if tiling or not. only reason I mention this is because of seeing cardboard under a wall tile

I’m not tiling. I’m vinyl planking. They are 4,5mm thick.

i actually bought a flexi today in case I can’t get it back on.

the pipes to the flexi leads have isolation valves so I can leave the sink unconnected if they don’t go back on.

I presume new flexi leads are a cut and bolt job and not pipework?

to answer your question, no, there are boards down already in good shape, and I have levelled a few uneven spots.

I was hoping 4.5mm wouldn’t be too much for the soil pipe...it has a flexi bit on there I can see.

happy with drilling tiles I have already done so and confident I can screw at the bottom.

one other thing. The cistern feed has a valve on it, but it’s been caulked. I can scrape it off, but I’m unsure why it was caulked. I wonder if anyone knows if this is standard practice or better off just isolating at the mains.

I’m hoping to do this later today so if you or anyone else can answer this fairly rapidly I’ll be ever grateful!

lostinthelight · 22 May 2020

Dylan123 said:
was hoping 4.5mm wouldn’t be too much for the soil pipe...it has a flexi bit on there I can see.

Thats not a flexie its the seal between the pan outlet and pipe which should be renewed .

Dylan123 · 22 May 2020

lostinthelight said:
Thats not a flexie its the seal between the pan outlet and pipe which should be renewed .

ok right, thanks. So it does indeed appear to be an offset one. Going down

I already bought a flexi (was at the store before I read the previous post)

surely a flexi COULD do it? I know there’s a huge “could” there but the flexi I bought appears to mould to that shape easy.

jctilingservices · 22 May 2020

Dylan123 said:
I’m not tiling. I’m vinyl planking. They are 4,5mm thick.

i actually bought a flexi today in case I can’t get it back on.

the pipes to the flexi leads have isolation valves so I can leave the sink unconnected if they don’t go back on.

I presume new flexi leads are a cut and bolt job and not pipework?

to answer your question, no, there are boards down already in good shape, and I have levelled a few uneven spots.

I was hoping 4.5mm wouldn’t be too much for the soil pipe...it has a flexi bit on there I can see.

happy with drilling tiles I have already done so and confident I can screw at the bottom.

one other thing. The cistern feed has a valve on it, but it’s been caulked. I can scrape it off, but I’m unsure why it was caulked. I wonder if anyone knows if this is standard practice or better off just isolating at the mains.

I’m hoping to do this later today so if you or anyone else can answer this fairly rapidly I’ll be ever grateful!

The cistern feed has a valve, do you mean the valve is on the inside of the cistern ? if so they are only about a fiver for a new one, just replace it . you may be able to get away with flushing the toilet and tying the ballcock up to stop it filling with water, unscrew toilet from floor, pull out the flush pipe from back of toilet, then remove the soil pipe, lay ya flooring, push soil pipe back in place and also the flush pipe to rear of the toilet, untie the ballcock and let the cistern fill up, flush it to make sue no leaks at soil pipe or the. The 4.5mm change in floor height should make no difference to refitting anything, Obviously this is probably not the way a plumber would do it, but it will work for you

with regards to your pedestal, turn water off at isolation valve, disconnect flexi from the copper pipe, disconnect waste and unscrew sink from wall. as like the toilet 4.5 mm is negligible and everything should go back together, possibly the mounting screws may go in on an angle

lostinthelight · 22 May 2020

Theres not enough space between the pan and pipe to use anything different to what you have at the mo so to use what youve bought would require some modification /removal of that white horizontal pipe.

jctilingservices · 22 May 2020

I cannot see any of the links people have posted, I see the pics no problem but clicking on the links all I get is a page with this message " Unfortunately, due to the ongoing crisis the product page you requested is unavailable at this time. Here are a selection of similar options:" and then ads for B&Q. WICKES, TOOLED UP and MACHINE MART

Dylan123 · 22 May 2020

jctilingservices said:
The cistern feed has a valve, do you mean the valve is on the inside of the cistern ? if so they are only about a fiver for a new one, just replace it . you may be able to get away with flushing the toilet and tying the ballcock up to stop it filling with water, unscrew toilet from floor, pull out the flush pipe from back of toilet, then remove the soil pipe, lay ya flooring, push soil pipe back in place and also the flush pipe to rear of the toilet, untie the ballcock and let the cistern fill up, flush it to make sue no leaks at soil pipe or the. The 4.5mm change in floor height should make no difference to refitting anything, Obviously this is probably not the way a plumber would do it, but it will work for you

with regards to your pedestal, turn water off at isolation valve, disconnect flexi from the copper pipe, disconnect waste and unscrew sink from wall. as like the toilet 4.5 mm is negligible and everything should go back together, possibly the mounting screws may go in on an angle

thanks. I don’t actually mean inside, the hose going from the outside has a valve identical to the ones on the taps. So I guess I turn this a quarter and hey presto, the toilet is isolated from the mains. The only reason why I’m worried is on the valve (ie the bit with a slit you put a knife in to turn it) has been caulked. Just a but worried to turn it because if they caulked it, it suggests “leave alone!” Or maybe I’m being paranoid.

I like the idea of just lifting it, I only need to slide 2 planks underneath and provided there are no nails sticking up or whatnot that could work.

I would probably drain the cistern first and mop the bowl up, unscrew at floor and loosen at cistern, take waste out....sound like a plan?

I’m wondering given it’s all plastic whether I could just lift it off without disconnecting waste and slide planks under. This is click tongue and groove so literally I can assemble, slide it under, drill a hole through the toilet screw hole and bang the old screws in. Although it might be a bitch getting them aligned to the old holes.

I guess I can try, if it doesn’t work, I’ll just take it off.

I wonder if the waste needs to come off if I’m just tilting it 4.5mm....obviously I’ll know if it’s buggered when I turn it back on....

lostinthelight · 22 May 2020

jctilingservices said:
I cannot see any of the links people have posted, I see the pics no problem but clicking on the links all I get is a page with this message " Unfortunately, due to the ongoing crisis the product page you requested is unavailable at this time. Here are a selection of similar options:" and then ads for B&Q. WICKES, TOOLED UP and MACHINE MART

If you enter the last numbers in the link in SF search bar it should take you ti the item, direct links dont work at the mo

jctilingservices · 22 May 2020

lostinthelight said:
If you enter the last numbers in the link in SF search bar it should take you ti the item, direct links dont work at the mo

Thank you very much mate, appreciated

jctilingservices · 22 May 2020

Dylan123 said:
thanks. I don’t actually mean inside, the hose going from the outside has a valve identical to the ones on the taps. So I guess I turn this a quarter and hey presto, the toilet is isolated from the mains. The only reason why I’m worried is on the valve (ie the bit with a slit you put a knife in to turn it) has been caulked. Just a but worried to turn it because if they caulked it, it suggests “leave alone!” Or maybe I’m being paranoid.

I like the idea of just lifting it, I only need to slide 2 planks underneath and provided there are no nails sticking up or whatnot that could work.

I would probably drain the cistern first and mop the bowl up, unscrew at floor and loosen at cistern, take waste out....sound like a plan?

I’m wondering given it’s all plastic whether I could just lift it off without disconnecting waste and slide planks under. This is click tongue and groove so literally I can assemble, slide it under, drill a hole through the toilet screw hole and bang the old screws in. Although it might be a bitch getting them aligned to the old holes.

I guess I can try, if it doesn’t work, I’ll just take it off.

I wonder if the waste needs to come off if I’m just tilting it 4.5mm....obviously I’ll know if it’s buggered when I turn it back on....

Its very possible that you can take out the 2 securing screws out from the toilet and slide your plank /planks underneath, just line your toilet up so everything looks straight, don't worry about trying to exactly match the original holes in the floor. As for your sink, if its the one in your first post I can only see isolation valves on flexi pipes, turn the water off at them, then undo the flexi from the tails of the taps, undo the screws holding sink to wall, loosen waste then take sink and pedestal away, the flexis will just lie on the floor, fit your planks, put pedestal in place, fit sink to wall then connect flexis to tails. if I were you I would check to see if there is any play between handbasin and pedestal, ( a slight gap ) you only need 5mm of play, remove pedestal, fit flooring then replace pedestal. I will get slated off plumbers for this advice, but it has worked in the past for me, obviously no pulling and riving at the pedestal.

lostinthelight · 22 May 2020

If its click lock planks they need to be angled before pressing flat so pan may have to be lifted high enough for that

Dylan123 · 23 May 2020

Right, so isolated the mains. Took screws out of cistern.

tried to disconnect the cistern feed but I am officially defeated. It’s absolutely welded on and I cannot unscrew it. See pictures.

I wondered if I can unscrew from inside the cistern but i can’t see a clear place to unscrew it.

Am I officially needing to call in a plumber? That hose connector to the valve will not budge

lostinthelight · 23 May 2020

Release it from the next isolation valve compression fitting and work on it in comfort .

Dylan123 · 23 May 2020

lostinthelight said:
Release it from the next isolation valve compression fitting and work on it in comfort .

the one at the bottom is the one I am trying to unscrew and it won’t move.

there is no way you can reach the one at the bottom of the cistern, that’s completely inaccessible from below.

or do you mean the one below the valve?

To clear up what I mean.

the one up on the flexi hose is inaccessible

the one below IS accessible but twisting the hose connector above the valve is completely stiff and stuck, even with 2 spanners.

there’s a connector below the valve attaching to the copper pipe. That I haven’t tried

terryplumb · 23 May 2020

Hold the isolation valve with a set of grips ,and undo the nut on the top of the valve with a spanner. It's really not that difficult !

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