Door around door when fitting into a frame
- Thread starter Jupiter01
- Start date
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I have fitted a few, but in my limited experience there is no need for any gap at all at the hinge side.
D
Deleted member 174758
On fire doors you aim for a 2 to 4mm (average 3mm) gap round the three sides (the bottom is different). This is a BWF standard. The type of hinges used on fire doors will pretty much always give you that 3mm gap on the hinge side TBH. Non fire doors it was always 2mm, providing the hinges permitted it. Gaps have to be visually even all round.
Thanks @JobAndKnock.
This door is for an airing cupboard and measures 60cm wide by 126 cm tall. I will adopt your suggestion of 2mm around all sides. The bottom has a wooden plate so could follow the same clearance there too.
which hinges do you recommend for this? Will 2 be adequate?
This door is for an airing cupboard and measures 60cm wide by 126 cm tall. I will adopt your suggestion of 2mm around all sides. The bottom has a wooden plate so could follow the same clearance there too.
which hinges do you recommend for this? Will 2 be adequate?
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D
Deleted member 174758
On a 1260 x 600mm door two 4in/100mm hinges should suffice if the door is 44mm thick. For a 35mm thick door 3in/75mm hinges should suffice. Whilst you don't need fire rated hinges, washered hinges will last longer
I was thinking of using 12mm MDF with some further 12mm timbers mounted on this to create A door effect. I think they call this a shaker style. On this basis, this will be 24mm thick. Does that seem sufficient and what size hinges will I require for this?
D
Deleted member 174758
MDF isn't the best thing to use to make a door, especially one that big. Not so bad for kitchen or bedroom doors where an 18 to 20mm single thickness lay-on door arrangement is used and where all the screws do is hold the 35mm cup (concealed) hinges in the hole (in point of fact it's the cups which do most of the load carrying - and on a 1260 x 600 door you'd need 3 to 4 of them), however that type of hinge is totally unsuitable for an architectural opening (I.e one in a wall). Problem is that screws into a butt hinge will pull out from MDF fairly quickly. It would be better if the door framing could be done in softwood as that will.take screws well, but that sort of points to 30mm plus door thickness IMHO
Aha understood.
perhaps I should build a frame using softwood timbers, mount 3.6mm Plywood onto this frame on each side (front and back of door) and then glue further softwood on the surface to create an effect that matches my existing doors (the horizontal and vertical slats).
perhaps I should build a frame using softwood timbers, mount 3.6mm Plywood onto this frame on each side (front and back of door) and then glue further softwood on the surface to create an effect that matches my existing doors (the horizontal and vertical slats).
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D
Deleted member 174758
I think so. TBH a simple, cheap dowelling jig, electric/cordless drill and a drill bit (brad point twist drill.or dowels drill) would allow you to make up frame from softwood. Clamps can be made up.using pieces of 2 x 1 lath with short lengths screwed on at either end (so they can swivel) which are knocked on to.provide clamping pressure whilst your glue sets (if needs be I'll post a couple of pics from work after I go back on Tuesday - a picture is worth a thousand words)
A picture would be really helpful @JobAndKnock. Thanks and hope you have a pleasant weekend.
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