Staining, weather bars & glazing a hardwood door

This is my current project: a hardwood door from the '60s/'70s. I've been reading posts and watching videos, but there are a few things I haven't been able to figure out yet:
- wood & colour
- the weather bar position
- glazing details.

It weighs an utter b*stard tonne. A friend thought it was teak due to the weight and the close grain.

However, this is after applying three coats of Sadolin Classic Heritage Oak (the most gold/orange-looking stain I could find), so it may be a mahogany instead? It's not the colour or finish I was aiming for - I wanted more of a golden brown than burgundy.


- Any idea how I can minimise the red tones please without painting it? Could a green ochre stain help?

Weather bar:
- Bearing in mind it opens outward, should the weather bar be flush with the bottom edge of the door, slightly above, or slightly below please?

Glazing:
It's single-glazed with a vertical reed pattern on the inside surface which means it has hills/valleys to mould glazing around. Therefore, instead of foam tapes, I chose Flexistrip butyl tape for the extra squidginess (the beading is on the inside and convex, so it can handle a variation in width - phew!).
On the outside, there are gaps at the corners of the trim/mouldin g which may let water in. (There's no route as in dry glazing to ensure water that gets in can escape.)
- Am I correct in assuming I need to apply sealant in the gap between the Flexistrip and frame?
- Is there anything else I should do please? Any tips?

Any other thoughts?

If its single glazed you could just silicone it in being honest but if you are using flxistrip , then no you don't need to silicone round the edge of single glazing , the silicone usage on double glazed units is to prevent any water getting to the sealed units ' seal ' , as as you don't need to worry about that , no silicone reqd

If you use a silicone bead on the outer face of the glass then use clear silicone. Put a small bead all around the inside of the recess and press the glass onto it. Make sure you centralise the glass to the recess by using small sponge packers all around the edges. This will help prevent the glass shattering if the wood expands due to increased moisture. Wipe of any excess silicone that squeezes out before it sets to give a smooth, unnoticeable finish.

The weatherboard is usually set a few millimetres above the bottom edge of the door, again, to stop the door catching if it swells through dampness. Make sure the drip groove underneath is perfectly clear before, and after, painting it. To make a door as waterproof as possible you should seal it ALL the way around, paying particular attention to the top and bottom where there may be end grain on show.

Regarding your tone problems I'm afraid I have no answers.