What Glue For Chipboard Flooring...

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*Dan*

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I'm replacing a panel of flooring and looking into what glue I should use. I have some PVA glue but seen there is D4 spec at a higher price and thinking if it is worth it? Its only one piece of flooring and studwork is going over the top of it. Will double bead the joists and noggins and then apply a bead on top of the tongue once connecting up with the other board.

thanks
 
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I use this stuff, just dont put too much on and gett the screws in quick
4FF270B0-0338-4E6D-A4E0-6C37C9713FFA.jpeg
 
We use D4 PVA. Normally just Everbuild D4 PVA. That PU stuff tends to start blowing the joints apart way too quick on warm, humid days. It also makes your skin go black if you touch it and its a bugger to clean up if/when it foams out
 
JobAndKnock said:
We use D4 PVA. Normally just Everbuild D4 PVA. That PU stuff tends to start blowing the joints apart way too quick on warm, humid days. It also makes your skin go black if you touch it and its a bugger to clean up if/when it foams out
Click to expand...

I was about to get some everbuild D4 PVA but got the caberfix d4 glue instead at a good price. I tried some in the garage on some wood and it dries very strong but was surprised how much it expanded - is this what you mean with the PU glue? I purchased it at a good price but I am now wary of using this after you mentioning the issue with PU glue!
 
When using any expanding adhesive allow it to expand for a minute of two before pushing the joint together, kills any expansion, dampening is also recommended on foam.
 
Nice idea in theory, but with glued flooring joints there may well be a need to to use some "gentle persuasion" (in our case we often opt for a 14lb sledge hammer and a 6ft long piece of 4 x 2 CLS or the like) because the joints are already tight (and sort of emphasise why we invariably start laying with the tongue facing the wall, or rather the tongue ripped off and the resulting flatish edge facing the wall). Anything which causes any sort of tightening of the joint even further is potentially going to make life more difficult, so using any form of expanding glue seems a poor idea in some respects, not to mention slowing down installation
 
Did the OP say he was using Caber flooring? Last time I installed Egger t&g chipboard flooring (screwed installation) the distributor's technical rep specifically recommended that we avoid PU glues. Perhaps because PU glues have compatibility issues with some SLCs and resin finishes?
 
JobAndKnock said:
Did the OP say he was using Caber flooring? Last time I installed Egger t&g chipboard flooring (screwed installation) the distributor's technical rep specifically recommended that we avoid PU glues. Perhaps because PU glues have compatibility issues with some SLCs and resin finishes?
Click to expand...

I’m using P5 22mm T&G flooring but not caber flooring brand.
 
JobAndKnock said:
Did the OP say he was using Caber flooring? Last time I installed Egger t&g chipboard flooring (screwed installation) the distributor's technical rep specifically recommended that we avoid PU glues. Perhaps because PU glues have compatibility issues with some SLCs and resin finishes?
Click to expand...
not specifically , but the title states chipboard flooring. i tend to stick with caberfix as it’s so strong and good quality ,which compensates for the fact that all chipboard flooring is crap.
 
bennymultifinish said:
not specifically , but the title states chipboard flooring. i tend to stick with caberfix as it’s so strong and good quality ,which compensates for the fact that all chipboard flooring is crap.
Click to expand...

I watched a video on the caberfix glue on caberfix flooring and it looked exactly the same as my flooring I.e tongue and groove. I have tried some caberfix on some old T&G board and was impressed how solid it was. Is it best to apply on the joist and then on the tongue as well as inside the groove? Don’t want to mess it up obviously and have taken time to cut this one piece !

And yes if I could I would get rid of all the chipboard flooring but it’s not possible and have to make do. I’m screwing down the boards as well while it’s all up as it’s currently nailed. Using spax wirox 4.5x60 screws (25mm thick flooring - god knows where they sourced that thickness from!)
 
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