Combi or Impact driver
- Thread starter arun30
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Have one of these with my sds drill for emergencies but heavy to use .
Have one of these with my sds drill for emergencies but heavy to use .
Arun,
If doing a reasonable amount of DIY I would go for one of the brand names - Makati, DeWalt, Hitachi/Hikoki (silly typo... Toshiba) etc.
Simply because new batteries for these remain available for many years (although often as no-brand versions).
As an example Toshiba stopped useing this shape of battery >6years ago, but many still available.
Fro the others finding replacement batteries is difficult.
I also second getting two batteries (even if smaller mAh). For small DIY jobs light battery is good. For occasional bigger jobs then able to change battery mid-job and put on charge. And as DIYer always forgetting to charge a battery, so small is good as quickly charged, and having one spare fully charged always good.
If my money I would currently buy one of these:
https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/dr...rpack=2&powervoltagesupply=18_v&sort_by=price
SFK
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Doh...... Hitachi.
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Bit late to the thread, but for serious DIY you need both. One because otherwise you are forever swapping bits from drills to drivers, and secondly if you have a lot of screws to drive (like decking) the torque clutch on a combi twists your wrist on every screw and you know about it after a hundred or so..., whereas an impact driver doesn't. Also, an impact driver will drive a 10mm hex-head coach screw for e.g. sistering joists. A combi generally won't. Once you've used a "knocky-knock" for driving screws, with the ease of control, lack of twist on your wrist, and the usually shorter body to get into tighter spaces, you'll wonder how you managed without!
If you are driving concrete screws an impact is handy.
Have a cordless drill and three impacts. Ranging from 100n, 200n, and 400n.
Not sure what a combi is?
Never heard it called that before.
Is it just a drill?
I guess it gets that name because its fitted with an inefficient friction ratchet to create hammering of sorts when masonry drilling.
Have a cordless drill and three impacts. Ranging from 100n, 200n, and 400n.
Not sure what a combi is?
Never heard it called that before.
Is it just a drill?
I guess it gets that name because its fitted with an inefficient friction ratchet to create hammering of sorts when masonry drilling.
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D
Deleted member 174758
Willy waggling aside, a combi drill (a drill/driver with variable speed, variable torque for screw driving and a mechanical impact for drilling in masonry) can be very useful if only one tool is being bought, or if an SDS drill (for masonry) is out of the question. Despite the foregoing negative comments they are generally OK for drilling into softer blockwork and the softer brick found in modern properties, but few will stand up to continuous/repeated drilling into anything and the impact blow strength is just too low to deal with harder materials such as 70kN concrete or engineering brick. On the other hand they are a lot quieter to use than an impact driver and they can be used to drill a wide variety of materials (e.g. steel, aluminium, plastics, wood, tiles, glass, etc) using standard, off the shelf drill bits - something impact drivers cannot do, just as most of them are too fast/powerful to drive small screws like #6s. Overall I think that MrRusty has it right
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A 12v is useless. Basically a toy.
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D
Deleted member 174758
Not always. I don't need an 18 volt kit to install a kitchen, and in point of fact 18 volt stuff is often just too big and clumsy for some tasks. On the other hand for a lot of the site work I do 18 volt and 2 x 18 volt are ideal. For the really heavy stuff, like dealing with large beams and heavy joisting, though, corded is the only approach.
Horses for courses
E
EddieM
Not really I have a 10.8v Bosch drill, I think it probably gets the most use. Sure it's not suitable for everything, but it is light versatile and surprisingly capable.
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