Car handbrake cable loose where it attaches to the brake caliper and not holding the car. video inc

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Rightboy91 said:
No because that wouldn't be applicable or even possible, and I know this needs sorting hence why I'm asking for help here
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So you park the car up and don't go anywhere near a road, until you are 100% confident it is properly fixed. Taking bits off (caliper return spring) and driving the car on a public road is simply asking for trouble. Manufacturers never add unnecessary bits to safety equipment, just for the fun of it. The spring is/was there to release the handbrake cam in the caliper after the brake has been used.

Another poster suggested cable stretch, I say again Bowden cables do not stretch. Cable adjustment is only provided to allow initial setting up to allow for variations in tolerance of the parts and wear. My own handbrake (not a Vectra) uses a dedicated drum brake, combined with the disk and is manually adjusted. The manual adjustment, because there is so little wear on the handbrake - is rarely needed. A matter of adjusting at each drum, but between times it can be done at the handbrake lever cable adjuster.

The handbrake, after several years wear, had got to four clicks. I only permit three clicks to full application, but prefer two clicks - so I adjusted the extra click out at the handbrake lever adjuster. It took me ten minutes, most of that spent finding my home made specially long box spanner, needed for the adjustment. Accessing the adjuster, was a matter of easing out the flexible leather cover around the actual lever, adjuster nut is hidden under the lever - hence the need for a long box spanner to be able to adjust it. Your cable adjuster will likely be in the same place and equally easy to access.
 
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I repeat he does not have a manual adjuster the cable is a set length all adjustment is within the caliper piston.
 
Mottie said:
Would that be the same solution as post #3? :whistle:
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Post #3 in this thread or post #3 in the thread I linked to?

Your post suggests a new cable, the linked to post #3 only poses questions looking for solutions, neither thread offers the potential solution described by #27 in the thread I linked to.
 
Mottie said:
Ah, I got that wrong then! :rolleyes:
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Hello Motto, you're a star yet again you save the day !!!

I took wheel off to film what you asked me to film but I didn't end up having to film it after all, because I did what you said about attaching the caliper return spring and now the wheel spins freely with the handbrake cable attached and it no longer locks up and the brakes don't overheat and smoke anymore !

I have had the handbrake disconnected for about 10 months (15,000 miles ) and all it seemed to need was the return spring putting on which took 1 minute.

I didn't think that would be the cause of this issue as on the other side the spring was also not attached yet the brakes and wheel didn't lock up on that side.

So it finally seems like this issue is resolved ! The car has solid on about 3 clicks now


Thanks again !!
 
These threads are shocking really, you don't know what state the car is on the other side of the road or what numpty has had a go at repairing it.

Don't start fitting track rod ends ffs..
 
Keithmac said:
These threads are shocking really, you don't know what state the car is on the other side of the road or what numpty has had a go at repairing it.

Don't start fitting track rod ends ffs..
Click to expand...

Why are they shocking ? And for your opinion I've fitted track rod ends on my previous car, easily without any problems
 
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