New plaster but damp issue which paint to use

sparkyshark · 6 Aug 2020

hi, we had the kitchen plastered a few weeks back and applied a must coat just fine. Now the paint in the images is peeling. Other areas are okay. We have a drain outside which no doubt is causing the issue.

However, I need a quick fix and am wondering what damp paint can I place underneath as we need the kitchen back in full working order.

We can tackle the damp cause. Cheers.

Cheers,
Sparky

ted456 · 6 Aug 2020

You have to find the cause of the damp - you dont know if its the drain or something else.
Post pics of the outside of the wall.
I'm guessing you only had the kitchen skimmed?
The bubbling has been there for a while. There's no quick fix, no magic paints, you have to hack off all damaged material back to brickwork and then render up in sand and lime render.

Is the floor or the wall solid?
Is the outside rendered?

sparkyshark · 6 Aug 2020

Put this in the plumbing forum also. I think its most likely the drain causing it which is directly adjacent to the wall.
Before doing up the kitchen we had tiles, so never noticed an issue. Until obviously recently!
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...r-cracked-new-damp-issue.550436/#post-4701866
The thing is the wall was taken back to the brickwork before it was plastered, not because of damp, we just took it back to gain an inch or so. - I don't fancy getting that done again.
Floor is solid, and the outside is not rendered, but has some masonry paint on it which is in bad nick also.
I'll take some more pictures tomorrow for you. Thanks.

ted456 · 6 Aug 2020

Moisture could be penetrating through the wall(is it cavity or solid?) or by-passing the door frame sealing or from coming up from the solid floor as rising damp.
The plaster should not be in contact with the floor - cut it back 40mm.
Why has fibre glass mesh tape been used at the wall floor junction?

sparkyshark · 6 Aug 2020

I best get some new pic's for you tomorrow as that may help.
Suspect it to be solid wall (all brick) I don't recall seeing a cavity.
The plasterer said it would make the plaster super strong (he did it all over) and prevent any cracking - cost me more mind you, but thought to myself may as well get it done once.

ted456 · 6 Aug 2020

In that case the mesh is probably the sheets kind that comes in 1m x 50m rolls for use as a crack barrier.
Were there cracks in the old plaster or in the wall itself?

opps · 6 Aug 2020

As above- there is no lasting quick fix.

if the plaster is damp then any paint will peel. A very dilute matt emulsion would be advisable, primarily because it will allow the moisture to escape.

If you fit new cupboards to those walls, you will risk damp building up behind them. Sorry, I guess that isn't what you want to hear.

I am confused though. In one of the images I can see what looks like scrim tape which implies plasterboard. If the walls were damp, why would anyone dot and damp over wet walls? Perhaps the moisture is coming from somewhere else? I don't know but if the initial damp was obvious, one would hope that the plasterer would have mentioned the damp issue to you.

I have been working in my trade for 30 years but since the checka trade type sites gained popularity I have witnessed a massive increase in poor quality work over the last 5 years.

I don't want to malign the guy who did your plastering, but how did he not notice the damp?

sparkyshark · 7 Aug 2020

Yes the mesh is as you say was 1m x 50m. There is no plasterboard, even I don't recall the walls being damp in fact, if you take a look at this picture before we started to rip it out everything was okay.

These are the current pictures.

The only thing i recall is that previously there was render on the wall a very hard concrete layer including a skim with plaster on top. What i remember now is that the plasterer used thistle bonding to build the the initial layer from the brick work, followed by skim but that was much after it was dry. Maybe he shouldn't have used bonding... The problem must have always been present but for some reason it did not show with the former render. Mesh was used as a recommendation for preventing any issues in the future. Again the previous layout was okay.

Tomorrow we'll be digging out the gully and i'll report back. I have a funny feeling its not going to be straight forward but we'll see...

sparkyshark · 11 Aug 2020

Hi All,

The gutter appears to have been the problem, that has now been removed. However, I am uneasy as the bottom part of the wall and the surrounding area is quite wet.
Even in this wonderful weather there's no chance that it's going to dry anytime soon.

Therefore, what do i need to do to get the kitchen plastering/interior back in order and to prevent any damp issues from coming back.
I can't wait months for it to dry as we are in need of a kitchen

If this isn't the correct forum please say and I'll re-post it in the general building area. Thanks again.

Cheers,
Sparky

ted456 · 11 Aug 2020

Ask the mods to combine and transfer your threads from here and the Plumbing forum to the Building Forum.

You'll have to do as i mentioned above - no easy way but to hack off and render.

You've got the problem of drainage coming from under, or actually from, your neighbours house. If there's leakage with these pipes the neighbour's will have to investigate.
Given your damp interior kitchen party wall then maybe the the other side of that wall is showing damp signs?
The 1/2" lead pipe might be leaking as it enters the house? Now might be a good time to have the lead water pipe replaced with 22mm plastic pipe.
If you have a solid floor then that could also be contributing to the rising damp in your walls plus maybe penetration through the solid outside wall?

sparkyshark · 12 Aug 2020

Cheers Ted will do.

I'll call into the neighbours and ask them whether they've had or are displaying any damp issues in the kitchen. Hopefully I can have a look myself.
The party wall and the wall adjacent (the one with the thistle multi bags on the floor is affected - more so the partition wall) The other side to that appears to be okay and I see no paint issues there.
For the lead pipe I also was thinking that, we also have the neighbours lead pipe going through our garden which is positioned on the left hand side of the gully area. Thames quoted a lot of money to replace it so we quickly ruled that out.
We have a solid floor in the kitchen vs the rest of the house which has wood floorboards suspended on brick foundations. Kitchen seems to be the odd one out in cased in concrete.

ted456 · 12 Aug 2020

Find where the incoming inlet in the manhole channel is coming from?
I previous mentioned the lead supplies - usually, the utility splits common supplies for free, and provides for free the new independent external isolators and you pay for the new plastic pipe from the isolator connection to your house.
The neighbour's external stop-tap and supply will be a concern for the utility & the neighbour - can his water supply be rerouted away from your property?
As above, you need the utility on site to view your manhole and the common drainage arrangements.
What if you want to build an extension - ask the utility what they would propose.

Not much you can now do about the solid floor - after hacking back you could leave bare brick behind the units and below the work top line?
The outside wall should be completely cleaned off back to bare brick and then raked out 20mm to 25mm and pointed with 3:1.

sparkyshark · 12 Aug 2020

Hi ted, okay so earlier today I asked the neighbours if they had any issues with the paint work/dampness in the kitchen area and I was told nothing that they had noticed.
I've taken some pictures and their outside wall appears to be in good nic, much better than mine. The kitchen itself is tiled so its difficult to tell if any rising damp issues are present, however on the side partition where it is painted it all looked/felt okay. So it looks i'm feeling the full brunt of it

When you say the incoming inlet into the manhole channel - not quite sure what you mean, could you advise further please.
I'll get on to Thames to see when and if they can come an inspect the manhole. I'm guessing it will likely be a while as they'll be covid busy.
An extension is on the cards at some point in the future for sure.
I don't think the misses would be too pleased with the brick approach - she is a bit of a clean nut.
Will do as you say for the paint work - I think i read somethign about using a wire brush to strip the paint off, but then that's going to look odd for the other sections?

ted456 · 12 Aug 2020

The tiled walls might divert the damp somewhere else - to your kitchen wall. Solid floors can do the same.
Look down the manhole and all the inlets through the benching are branch inlets. Your main channel (the invert channel) has an inlet at one end and an outlet at the other end. This presumes that the sewer comes from under your neighbour's wall and garden so how come his waste and sewage is being branched off into your manhole? Why doesn't he have his own manhole? Are there houses beyond your neighbour who are also using this sewer line.

sparkyshark · 13 Aug 2020

Hi ted, I don't really know, these are terraced houses. I'm in one of the middle ones, I just thought that every few houses they'll be man holes. My opposite neighbour for example doesn't have a man hole either, but he shares his house with an end terrace so suspect they'll be one there also. I can ask the other neighbours though.

I had thought that the main channel goes along the row of our houses and then into a main sewer somewhere...

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New plaster but damp issue which paint to use

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