Concealed cistern slow to fill

Joined
6 Dec 2007
Messages
1,419
Reaction score
27
Location
Dundee
Country
United Kingdom
My cistern has been really slow to fill with the water really just trickling in. It's also been a sod to flush with you having to pump and pump at the button to get it to flush.

So I've hauled the worktop off and had a look inside - not that I know what I'm looking for lol

The water was just trickling and I lifted the ball cock and let it drop and lo and behold, the water started coming in like it should.

With the worktop and lid off, it's flushing ok as well but clearly I can't leave it like that.

Can anyone give any ideas of a fix please?

If I need to replace bits, how do I find out what kind of cistern it is? I don't see any names on it or anything - and is all that tubing really necessary or can it be cut back so that it's not all coiled round?

upload_2020-8-31_13-23-19.png


upload_2020-8-31_13-23-59.png
 
Sponsored Links
As they say in the action films. No don't cut the blue wire! It is your flush operation fixed both ends you will not be able to just join it again.
You just need a new diaphragm in the ball valve there are different types but chances are that is a basic one like this.
https://www.toolstation.com/ballvalve-washer-delchem/p74055
Turn off the water, undo the big plastic nut remove the old diaphragm washer, (note the washer position) give it a quick flush through and replace with the new one taking care to put it in the right way around. There is a slight groove running around the washer that mates up with a raised lip in the valve.

This guy has done a video, you do not need to strip the whole thing like he does just undo the big green nut he shows holding the diaphragm in.
 
One last thing while you have it out check the ball float is OK shake it to check it has not filled with water.
 
That's a pneumatic operated flush valve. The "blue wire" is an air tube. It will just pull off the red cap and can be cut to length.
 
Sponsored Links
Thank you. Dismantling I shall go and hope I don't flood the place lol. Of course getting to the isolation valve is going to be a bugger but I'll just turn the water off at the mains.
 
Last edited:
The diaphragm looked OK so in my infinite wisdom, I decided to replace the whole ball valve thingy. It's cured the filling problem and indeed has cured the strange banging noise I was getting every time I flushed or ran water. However, when the cistern fills up, the water doesn't just cut right off. There's a trickle constantly coming through the filler. Is it something I've not done right or could it be a faulty valve?
 
It just keeps on running. All adjusted. It was a white restrictor in the old one and I, err, kinda think I forgot to put it in o_O There wasn't one with the new thingy so didn't realise I still needed that. Oops

There was a wee plastic washer on the old one but I think it's worn and not sure what to replace it with.

This is what I got

https://www.toolstation.com/thomas-dudley-beta-part-3-adjustable-float-valve/p22288

But I've just seen this and think I shoulda got this one as it looks more like what was in it.

https://www.toolstation.com/delchem-adjustable-arm-fill-valve/p68217
 
Either should do it, I see yours has an adjustable length of arm is it set too short to put sufficiant pressure on the valve? Otherwise there is dirt on the seating of the valve or the valve is faulty would be my guess.
 
I set it to the same length as the old one, but it's like it's not pressing against the wee pin properly, but the spout that the water comes out of is leaking where it's seated into the valve bit. I cleaned it all before I put it together :/
 
Alison, when you undid the large nut did you notice a locating peg that keeps everything in line, and is the nut tightened fully?
Next Q, if you lift the ball up manually the valve should shut off....if it keeps on running there then there's another issue.
John :)
 
Yeah everything is in line - wee notch is in where it should be. If I lift the ball manually, it does stop running - it's like it's not pressing against the pin properly
 
OK, if it's a type 2 valve, the ball float can be swivelled on its brass lever arm, as well as adjustment at the pin....10mm spanner needed!
If it's the type 1 valve, you bend the brass lever arm across your knee so greater pressure is exerted on the valve as there is no adjustment.
You then visit a chiropractor because you've knacked your kneecap :eek::(
John :)
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top