Tiles barely overlapping gutter: Shoddy work?

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My partner had her C.1895 roof retiled about three years ago; (retiled with real slate) on the face of it it all looks good: but yesterday I got up close as I was clearing the gutters, and I was shocked to see that the lower run of tiles barely makes it over the lip of the gutter: probably 10mm overlap at the worst. Ontop of this, they have draped the tyvek liner into the gutter, which is now disintegrating (UV degradation; polypropylene has a short life...) and no longer helping if there is any water falling short. This looked wrong to me, so I had a quick google, and sure enough, recommended overlap is half to 2/3 of the gutter!
So I'd be very grateful if any roofer on here give me some advice on options?
Complaining to the original roofer I guess is first thing to do... Is there a statutory warranty with these sort of jobs?
If that fails, I thought the easiest option is to get a strip of decent EPDM rubber sheet (not UV sensitive!) wide enough to sit far enough under the lowest tile overlap, and trail it down into the gutter. Would this be practical?
Any thoughts or advice on the best way forward appreciated!
 
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If you Google eaves protector from eurocell, that should help solve the issue.

Although I recommend trying to get the roofer back!
 
Felt support trays are designed to fix that problem. Your original roofer should have fitted them (and should have got the gutter overhang right, thats basic. Unless yr partner has had new gutters or EWI fitted over the last 3 years). Good luck with chasing it though...
 
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Thanks guys, that looks like the way to go. However all the guides I've seen so far show the trays going on before the tiles, and nailing to the top of the soffit, which would've been so easy if done at the time. Is it not possible to slip them under the edge of the front tiles without removing the tiles and without rucking the membrane, and nail to the front? I'm guessing that the problem is avoiding messing up the membrane.
 
Yes you can sometimes retrofit them successfully, depends where the first batten is. The trays need to go under the felt, if you push the tray so its hard against the first batten (which the felt will be under) you can create a dam which is not good. If the roof was counterbattened the problem gets worse.
So you need to measure how far from slate edge the first batten is (shove a length of flat plastic between felt and slate til it stops, measure).
If that distance is greater than distance from barge board stop to back edge, happy days. If it less then you may have to trim the back edge
You should be able then to carefully insert them til the bargeboard bit lines up with the bargeboard. They're usually a snug fit so don't worry about nailing them. You may find it easier to take the gutter off while fitting them.
Or you get the roofer back to finish the job properly (the breathable membrane installation spec will almost certainly mention and require eaves trays as (I think) do building regs.
 
Brilliant, thanks Oldbutnotdead, that's exactly what I need to know. First I'll try and track down this pesky roofer...
 
Three years? No chance.
We're trying to find the paperwork/quotes at the moment.. but if there is a basic good practice or building regs. requirement, applicable at the time, are a reputable company not obliged to make good the work? It's not as if the tiles have eroded or moved! I' (think) I've managed to attach a few images here; on the second you can see the Tyvek strip blowing in the breeze...
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We're trying to find the paperwork/quotes at the moment.. but if there is a basic good practice or building regs. requirement, applicable at the time, are a reputable company not obliged to make good the work? It's not as if the tiles have eroded or moved! I' (think) I've managed to attach a few images here; on the second you can see the Tyvek strip blowing in the breeze... View attachment 206075 View attachment 206076
Contractually, you had your chance to inspect the work before payment, at the end of the job, and the 12 months after completion. That's your time to bring claims for defects and faulty workmanship.

In addition, if you did not have a specification of the works, then you would have had difficulty in any case, because you have no way to prove the work is not what you specified and paid for.
 

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