Shower trap fitting problem

Yup, you can't seal the trap to the plywood under the tray as it would just leak between the tray and the wood. You would normally have a dry fit first and then have it all cut out before the tray goes down.

Best of luck
 
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Non-progress update. After fitting shower tray the other day, I recall the bubble showing a bow in the middle of tray. I thought this was normal with built in fall, but after some Googling apparantly not. I'm thinking It may be better to rip out and start again with new tray. I'll have to find a way of doing water test first to see if it's worth redoing.
I'll try and measure how bad the bow is also.
Nothing's ever simple in my house..
Thanks guys....I'll be back...probably with pics/vid of me with hammer & chisel in hand
 

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Tile adhesive can take a long time to go off and TBH not surprised given the amount you used :D. On a tray that size you would use multiple smaller clumps. 1 in each corner, then half to the middle length and width then half again on length so would be 5 down the lentgh and 3 on the width.

Even then though, I'd still use silicone adhesive. The key is make the plinth dead level, or as close as so when the tray goes down it will be too and then silicone adhesive underneath at a number of contact areas and a good quality silicone on the wall to tray edges and then slot the tray down and in, I would just about guarantee it won't ever move.

Also, before the tray goes in, is that backerboard, at the back/sides or gyproc look like the former but thought I'd just check. All the joints in the wet space sealed?
 
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Thank you again Rob.
Your instructions make total sense. I did go a bit OTT with the adhesive . It was a 20kg bag and was so afraid of running short half way through so mixed and slapped the lot down. Your guide sounds like the way to go tho. Yes, I did seal between plinth and backer board (I had to do something right, lol). New tray coming tomorrow, will seriously consider a CT1 option also. I'll give the manufacturer a ring after lunch to get their thoughts.
I feel like a bit of an expert now with all this knowledge and experience from the first mess up.
Hope I don't eat my words.
Pics to follow of attempt no.2.
Cheers.
 
Self levelling screws?.... Been looking at shower trays a while now but never seen these b4 until now. New shower tray has these sort of grub screws to level it. About 7mm long, I screwed them in 2mm as per instructions.
I rang the manufacturer before purchase and they were very clear that NO tile adhesive/silicone etc is to be used, just the levelling screws. Tray went in fine and is level, but what the heck is going to hold it there?
Any thoughts anyone?
 

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Instructions....
 

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Bit confused by that when they say no silicone etc given the fact that on the front page of the instruction there's a silicone gun? I presume they are talking about underneath. I would still use silicone along the tray edge faces that touch against a wall so it's at least fixed to the wall at those points and fill any gaps between the wall and the tray to stabilise and stop movement, let that go off overnight and then seal again along the top edges, then the wall covering, then seal again.

Also note it must be either a hard wood marine/WBP plywood or concrete I presume so the screws don't dig in. That being said I still wouldn't like the tray sitting on those loading points like that as I wouldn't be happy with that over the longer term but that's just me. Just don't use a soft plywood/mdf or any other soft wood.
 
Thank you Rob,
My thoughts exactly. The tray is sitting on a marine ply, I guess it's softwood, I'm not sure TBH. I can't bring myself to fit tray as per the instructions. Those load points aren't even 10mm diameter. I have some pieces of about 3mm aluminium which I am going to place under the load points. Also put dabs of Stixall under tray and at the edges and then seal as you suggest. I won't sleep at night if I do it any other way... .would this be the way to go do you think?.... pics to follow.
 
I know it goes against the MI but I'd still use dabs of silicone or adhesive underneath as you suggest, not a lot but just enough to give a bit of grip and extra support. If the wood is a marine ply (it would be marked as such or with the acronym WBP) then it'll be made up of hard wood, if it isn't marked then it's soft wood and TBH should be replaced.
I wouldn't use an adhesive on the side edges/wall touch points though as there still needs to be a little give to absorb expansion and the slight flex there will always be with trays and wood, a high quality silicone would be my choice.
 
The screws are only there to level it up dry.
Then you still need to stick the tray to the base and when you press it in even by standing on it, it will be levelled.
If you don't use any adhesive, the screws will sink into the base and the tray will become wobbly.
Your first tray was not levelled in the middle and it must not be otherwise you'd end up with pooling water.
The tray must be levelled on extreme external edges only, not in the middle where there's a manufacturing fall to drain water in the trap.
 
Just looked at your pictures again.
Are you sure your spirit level is straight?
 
The screws are only there to level it up dry.
Then you still need to stick the tray to the base and when you press it in even by standing on it, it will be levelled.
If you don't use any adhesive, the screws will sink into the base and the tray will become wobbly.
I rang the manufacturer before purchase and they were very clear that NO tile adhesive/silicone etc is to be used, just the levelling screws
 

I know, that's what I wanted to reply with but I'm too polite. He was the sales guy who had had some sort of presentation from the manufacturer as the sales guy thought it was boll@x also funny enough. But he said it looked fine to him.
I'm still gonna do it the proper way tho as in Stixall underneath and silicone around the edges.
 

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