Looks good, next time remember those toppers!
Bending Battens to Curved Bay
- Thread starter wingit
- Start date
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Thanks, I won't forget that in a hurry
Morning all,
Setting out today and following the advice to have an eaves tile at the top.
Can't work out how it's possible to do this without having to stick to the 125mm exposure that
It creates. The plain tile below the eaves touches the batten above resulting in the 125mm exposure.
The photo shows an eaves tile at the top and a full size below on the left and two eaves tiles on the right which just shifts the problem downhill
A full size tile at the top allows for 100mm which is what I'd like to achieve but I can see that this results in a bigger lead flashing.
Am I being daft? Or is this just how it is? I've seen lots of bays done with a smaller exposure. Can I just tile the whole thing in eaves tiles to get the tighter rows?
Thanks
Setting out today and following the advice to have an eaves tile at the top.
Can't work out how it's possible to do this without having to stick to the 125mm exposure that
It creates. The plain tile below the eaves touches the batten above resulting in the 125mm exposure.
The photo shows an eaves tile at the top and a full size below on the left and two eaves tiles on the right which just shifts the problem downhill
A full size tile at the top allows for 100mm which is what I'd like to achieve but I can see that this results in a bigger lead flashing.
Am I being daft? Or is this just how it is? I've seen lots of bays done with a smaller exposure. Can I just tile the whole thing in eaves tiles to get the tighter rows?
Thanks
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Not sure what you mean, are you asking if I clipped the overlapping layers of lead flashing together? If that's what you are referring to, I cut out the pattern, leaving 'flaps' that folded over and keep the layers secured together.
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Morning, I meant the v shaped lead clips that they use instead of the lead wedges to secure flashing in a mortar chase. Can see what you mean about yours.
Thanks
Turn the top eave batten on edge...btw you don't need 100 on vertical
Last edited:
Ah, is this what I should have done anyway?
Saw your message a little too late, me and the missus have been pouring boiling water over the battens all morning! The cups of tea we could have had with the water is sacrilege!
All battened out now, have got 10mm different from the left to right hand side but we've chased it in over the rows.
Thanks
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This has been really useful to read chaps as I'm tackling a similar project tomorrow. I'm planning on avoiding the need to bend wooden battens by using upvc. Before I start, any reason this isn't a good idea?
You've probably already started it by now but it is doable in battens but you'll need to kerf the back have two of you and use a kettle to be successful. And be prepared for some failure before they bend without cracking.
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Finally got mine all tiled, will post a photo when it's finished.
However I'm stumped at how to secure the flashing in the gap at the top. I've fitted the flashing in three 1m sections and have got about 40mm tucked between the top tile and the underneath of the sill.
I've got a gap of about 15mm between the lead and the cill, I've tried knocking in some lead wedges but the cill seems to flex too much and cause the previous wedge to loosen up as I go along the run.
Tried with lead clips but the gap seems a little too big for them to grip tight.
Current thought is to glue a couple of window Packers under the cill to reduce the gap and then fit the sprung lead clips in the gap, then fill the rest of the space with lead mate.
Any thoughts? Don't fancy ripping it all back out again as it was a nightmare to get looking decent.
Thanks
However I'm stumped at how to secure the flashing in the gap at the top. I've fitted the flashing in three 1m sections and have got about 40mm tucked between the top tile and the underneath of the sill.
I've got a gap of about 15mm between the lead and the cill, I've tried knocking in some lead wedges but the cill seems to flex too much and cause the previous wedge to loosen up as I go along the run.
Tried with lead clips but the gap seems a little too big for them to grip tight.
Current thought is to glue a couple of window Packers under the cill to reduce the gap and then fit the sprung lead clips in the gap, then fill the rest of the space with lead mate.
Any thoughts? Don't fancy ripping it all back out again as it was a nightmare to get looking decent.
Thanks
that is because it should be a tray fitted under the cill and frame. flashing as you suggest is not correct as i have previously said.
Flashing clips and lead seal.
Looks like that may be my only option. Will need to shim the gap a bit first though.
Thanks
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