Festool TS 55 Vs TSC 55 plunge saw

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I'm planning to buy one of these two saws. Anyone here used the cordless TSC 55 who can say if it is as good as the corded model? Some of the American forums say that the cordless model is more powerful than the corded 110v but that this might not be the case with the 240v models. Does anyone know?
 
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I have the 240v TS 55.
Can't see any cordless having more power.
I have over heated my TS 55 on many an occasion.
Many rate the Mafell MT55 as a much better saw.
It does have 200 watts extra power.
And its compatible with festool rails.
And has some other very unique features.

Cordless saws usually have thinner blades and they deflect easily.
 
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Different beasts with different uses. The cordless tools seem to be a bit more powerful, but battery life can be an issue. For flooring work at the moment I use a Makita DSP600 cordless which seems to have more oomph than either my TS55 or the firm's SP6000 (Makita). On the other hand it takes 4 batteries to run it (hence a double charger) before you even consider a cordless vacuum. I went Makita cordless because of the battery system (I use mainly Mak cordless kit)
 
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Ryler, are you a fan of Donald Trump by any chance?

At least I've not had my cordless bog down on cuts and die because the motor is underpowered (a common issue with the TS55 on some materials) or the 110 power supply at the end of a 50ft extension cable is carp.

Blade deflection of the thinner blades used on cordless tools is rarely a problem on materials up to 25mm thick such as chipboard, plywood, MDF, etc
 
At least I've not had my cordless bog down on cuts and die because the motor is underpowered

Which is only because you are making short cuts.
Try constant cutting on a bale of 18mm ply wood.

Will the makita burn out or will a thermal cut out kick in?
Or will the batteries just get roasted?
 
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Which is only because you are making short cuts.
Try constant cutting on a bale of 18mm ply wood.
You really are full of it, aren't you? When flooring or ply roofing you aren't cutting constantly, or doing only short cuts. As for the ill informed BS you've stated about the Makita, well that's just ill informed BS. My Mak was the only saw used for the trimming cuts on the mezzanine floor on a department store when new 2 years ago, 18mm hardwood ply, circa 12,000 square feet, cut round openings, steels and walls
It never burned out. Neither has it burned out on the current project where we've installed around about 900 sheets of 9mm birch plywood to date (double skin stressed diaphragm floor) with loads of cut outs for stair walls, trusses, queen posts, etc. Maybe I've got the one good one
 
As someone who owns a Hilti WSC85 (similar size to the Festool.product) I can attest to the fact that these big saws do deep cuts and are powerful. But for cutting individual sheets of plywood as you often need to do on flooring or roofing jobs the big saws are just too heavy and unwieldy for fast work, even if you have muscles like Garth. In any case, no self respecting site would let you on with an (Festool) HK85 - they are only available in 230 volt and that is not permitted on construction sites in the UK. Of course, what small builders do isn't always to the regs...
 
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On constant cutting will they burn out or will a thermal cut out kick in?
Yet again you don't know what you are talking about. The fact that you are full of BS and never seem to offer assistance to anyone on building matters leads me to think that you are simply clueless, meaning you are either (a) the idiot apprentice, (b) the boss's idiot son, (c) the labourer or (d) a sixteen year old pimply virgin with a Festool catalogue and a hard on. So come on, which is it?
 

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