Number twos

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In my six year old Linden-built house there are two toilets on the first floor and a small one on the ground floor near the front door.
With regard to the ground floor one (see photo), at water level it is only about four inches from side to side and the water is only about three inches deep. There are no blockages, but it has proved difficult to flush away some "Richard the Third's".
Is there a minimum size of pan/bowl allowed? Are toilets with a larger pan/bowl able to fitted to the same fixings easily? Are these ground floor toilets really just meant for number ones?
 

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1. The residual water level in the bowl has nothing to do with the volume of water used to flush. It merely reflects the level of the trap used to seal against the ingress of sewer smells.
2. More likely to be an issue with the volume of water transferring from cistern to bowl when flushed.
3. Modern WC's are limited to a 6 litre (maximum) flush, whereas it used to be 9 litres.
4. Inside the cistern there should be a line in the ceramic / plastic, usually on the back, which is the 6 litre mark.
5. Make sure that when full, before flushing, the water is up to this mark. If not, insufficient water is being flushed.
6. Additional water can be stored by adjusting the inlet valve float, to ensure the mark is reached before the valve shuts off. How this is done depends on the type of inlet valve you have.
 
Thanks for that ....but I am bit worried that the bowl is rather thin and won't let much pass through it and the S bend.
Is there a standard fixing (base of toilet to the floor) for toilets, as I'm thinking of getting a plumber in the fix a toilet with a wider girth so that Richards can pass with ease?
 
You won't better a Wickes Portland toilet - £50. and it clears my #2s on short flush. Form follows function with this WC.
 
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I'm thinking of getting a plumber in the fix a toilet with a wider girth so that Richards can pass with ease?
Wider isn't necessarily better. For a given volume flow rate from the cistern, the differential pressure across the trap will be less than for a narrower girth, thus having less pushing force on the Richard. The shape of the trap, as distinct from just its girth, plays a big part in the flush effectiveness.
 
I think that the design is so narrow that the larger Richards have trouble doing a quick rotation and half-nelson to get around the bend and out to the sewer.
Are the anchor points that fit the toilets to the floor the same for all toilets though?
 
Maybe you can lay your hands on an old Syphonic.
 
As my old boss once said to a customer...
"The problem sir, is that you have a 4" soil pipe and a 6" ar$ehole!"

(y)
 
I cannot believe in these days of obesity and curries that small loos are designed.
 
Maybe you can lay your hands on an old Syphonic.

Might be jumping out the frying pan into the fire there. Choose with care!

We had a Doulton Double Trap Syphonic in the upstairs bathroom growing up. House was built in 1979, parents bought it in '83 from a Professional aquaintance of my Dad's, she warned us on viewing it was prone to blocking. The Builders had been back and removed it once to check for issues, none found.

Whilst a brilliantly, almost silent flush, the syphonic action was never powerful enough in my view to clear the pan. Dad kept a wooden mop handle with a 4" plunger on the end by the said WC to avoid embarrassment when we used it....
 

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