Floor to ceiling book case

I am building my unit in place. I no longer need to worry about moving the unit into place. Since the last pic, I have made some further progress:
0E31245E-AFE9-41C7-A543-3597BDABCD1C.jpeg
Thought I’d clarify as this may provide some further options.

Also, on the subject of caulk, can I use this on the bookshelf joints before panting? There are some hairline gaps between some of the joints and was wondering if I can finesse these before panting.
 
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I'd recommend that you use 2-pack filler sparingly on your gaps rather than caulk.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
JobAndKnock said:
I'd recommend that you use 2-pack filler sparingly on your gaps rather than caulk.
Click to expand...
In the past, I have found that applying filler/caulk with a finger allows me to squeeze and smooth it into such small gaps. With the 2 part filler, I know it's evil on the hands. Is there a particular approach to this type of application or alternatively is there a finger-friendly product I can use?
 
Well, first off I'd suggest that you consider using barrier cream before starting work - it makes getting all sort of stuff off your hands a lot easier, although you will still need one of those hand cleaners with the corn kernel "grit" (or similar) in it.

Secondly, get yourself some very flexible stopping knives (1in/25mm and 1-1/2in/38mm should do) - Homebase and a lot of other places sell really cheap, very flexible white plastic ones for a quid or two a pop. Nice thing about them is that because they are so cheap I don't mind butchering them to make "specials" (odd shapes, etc).

Thirdly keep a look at Toupret fillers. I didn't suggest these first time round as they aren't always the easiest to source. They do a one pack filler (sorry, can't remember the name, but I'll look it up or pull some out and edit this post later, when I get home) which contains a fibre binder and which, unlike any other one pack filler I have ever tried, it doesn't shrink as it dries. The problem is that you won"t find the stuff in DIY places or Screwstation (or at least not last time I needed some) - but you can find it in decorators wholesalers and on-line decorstors suppliers. Not the cheapest product, I have to say, but it washes off hands fairly easily when not to well set (24 hours to full set, I think)

Edit: can't find any of the filler I used with fibres in it, it came in a tube and I think it was called Elafil - but that is now discontinued. The other Toupret filler I use is Toupret Wood Filler - Ready Mixed which comes in tubs
 
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Can someone please validate if either of the above are suitable for my project?
 
Superglue or pva and sanding dust for hairline gaps that filter won't fit it nor rub out smooth.
 
You'll need some shellac sanding sealer for those board ends so that they blend in smooth with the adjacent surface when you paint them.
 
Careful, we'll end up with a 6-page thread about how to fit those spot lights if you post stuff like that! ;)
 
Few bits and pieces left before I begin the painting
12E2289C-47FB-4EA7-A783-46BE7423BA93.jpeg

On the top row, I measured the distance to the ceiling and as it was sloping down one side, I cut the uprights to suit. This meant that I have a uniform gap at the top.

On the filling, I’ve got two suggestions above:
- Superglue and saw dust
- Toupret wood filler

Are there any other options or can someone please validate one of the above.

Thanks again
 
I have already commented on Toupret. You might like to consider that in the past putty or Brummer stopping (both still available) were often used for the task. In a workshop (I.e. a joinery or cabinet shop) the use of any glue and sawdust mixture to fill gaps is regarded as a complete bodge. Whilst it can be acceptable to fill some gaps in parquet floors with it, those are normally dark coloured and at least 5 feet from the viewers eyes. On the other hand using glue and sawdust it is often very noticeable in furniture joints, which can be just a few inches from your face (making flaws more obvious), principally because it has a tendency to show through finishes as rough or shiny patches (or worse light areas in stained or polished work). If you use it take care when sanding it out as it will be harder than the surrounding MDF which can lead to over sanding of the surrounding material.
 
Jupiter01 said:
Few bits and pieces left before I begin the painting
View attachment 214599

On the top row, I measured the distance to the ceiling and as it was sloping down one side, I cut the uprights to suit. This meant that I have a uniform gap at the top.

On the filling, I’ve got two suggestions above:
- Superglue and saw dust
- Toupret wood filler

Are there any other options or can someone please validate one of the above.

Thanks again
Click to expand...
I have used thin bead of dec caulk on shelving, finished with damp small paintbrush.
Once painted leaves perfect joint .
 
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