Spade crimp connections

Hi all. I want to extend the power flex on my mum's washing machine. I only have shielded crimp connectors. I noticed that the current flex uses female, uninsulated, open crimp connectors, the types that crimp at two points.



My two questions are, which size equates to my red spade connectors and will my ratchet crimper be suitable?



My crimper has a rounded receiving profile, others seem to have squarer profiles (what are the different usage applications?).

I realise that I could stick with my crimps and cut the insulation off the earth one but I would feel more confident using the types that were originally used given that washing machines have metal skins.

Thanks in advance.

Remove the panel on the appliance and fit a new power cord to suit.

Terrywookfit said:

Remove the panel on the appliance and fit a new power cord to suit.

Click to expand...

Sorry, if I wasn't clear. I did remove the panel, which is how I found out which crimps they used.

Personally I hate crimps...solder every time , covering the ends with heat shrink.
I imagine the original crimps on the machine were actually spot welded - although hardly visible.
John

A crimp when done correctly can be as good and maybe better than a soldered joint.

To do it correctly the crimp must be selected according to the type of wire ( size and number of strands ) and crimped with the correct tool and crimp pressure and final size.

In some cases a well made crimp joint creates a cold weld between conductors and the crimp.

When stranded wire is soldered some solder wicks along the strands and solders them together beyond the joint area. This makes the wire non flexible and unable to tolerate vibration.

Opps
Red Spade connectors are for up to 1.5mm² cable - what cable size are you planning to use?
Agree with burnerman, I tend to crimp and then solder. Crimps can come loose if not done properly.

Would suggest that you test your crippling skills on a spare length of cable first, and this will also check to see which hole is the correct one on your crimps.

To answer your question, I expect that out of the 4 holes it is likely to be the second or third.

SFK

Cold welding....with a hand crimper?
John

Burnerman said:

with a hand crimper?

Click to expand...

If the hand powered crimp tool is designed to exert adequate pressure then yes. But in the real world of DIY tools a cold weld is probably not going to happen with a simple hand powered crimp tool

opps said:

Sorry, if I wasn't clear. I did remove the panel, which is how I found out which crimps they used.

Click to expand...

Your post said "Extend the Power flex"!!! Which to me means make longer.
What you meant was Fit a longer flex !!

Terrywookfit said:

Your post said "Extend the Power flex"!!! Which to me means make longer.
What you meant was Fit a longer flex !!

Click to expand...

Sorry, yes I should have been clearer.

Apologies to all for not making it clear that I want to replace the existing flex and fit a new longer one.

Here is a photo of the current flex entering the WM.



At some point in the past, the machine was pulled out and the flex slightly popped out. That resulted in the neutral spade connector coming off the male connector and hitting the live connection. You can see the arcing if you zoom in on the photo above.

I did purchase a 3m length of 1.5mm flex and fitted the insulated female connectors that I have to hand. The first connector that I crimped on passed the tug test, the next 3 failed, denting my confidence in the reliability of my crimping skills. I eventually fitted all 3 crimps but decided to leave the old flex in place (using pliers to squeeze the fittings tighter).

The original factory fitted crimps look like they crimp to both the stranded wires and the insulation. My primary question is whether my crimping tool will work with them. I am happy to buy a new crimping tool if need be.

The original pieces will have been crimped by machine under high pressure. At the same time an electric current is flashed between the two creating to all intents and purposes a spot weld......the insulation is also crimped to give a form of strain relief.
I was quite incredulous when I witnessed this at the local Electrolux factory but I realised that the crimps, and naturally the cable were both non ferrous so a spot weld could be achieved.
For your project you could always put a 3 wire connector on the mains lead and extend it that way if you wish, if you're not happy with the crimps and don't have a soldering iron.
John

As burnerman suggested...
Cut cable short inside machine.
Join that cable to your new cable inside machine using this:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/teetube-...GstkgIvYGoaQUGzn9IAaAlOeEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Burnerman said:

The original pieces will have been crimped by machine under high pressure. At the same time an electric current is flashed between the two creating to all intents and purposes a spot weld......the insulation is also crimped to give a form of strain relief.
I was quite incredulous when I witnessed this at the local Electrolux factory but I realised that the crimps, and naturally the cable were both non ferrous so a spot weld could be achieved.
For your project you could always put a 3 wire connector on the mains lead and extend it that way if you wish, if you're not happy with the crimps and don't have a soldering iron.
John

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I was unaware of the concept of flashing currents whilst crimping. Clearly I won't be in a position to do that.

Apropos the existing flex and connections, when the existing flex was placed under stress by pulling the WM out too far, it distorted the live and neutral female crimps. On the day that happened the live crimp disconnected. A year later, I got a phone call from my mum to say that the kettle tripped the MCB and that the washing machine was not working. She had last used the WM two days earlier. When I pulled the WM out, I discovered that the female spade connector had popped off and it looks as though it hit the live (and then bounced off again). I have no idea why that would happen two days after the machine was last used but I did notice that both the existing live and neutral female spade connections were rather lose. I used grips to make them tighter.

I do not want to keep the existing flex and connections. I take on board your point about factory crimping but in your opinion, if I purchase some of the crimps in my first post, will they be superior to the barrel spade connectors that I have currently have? Personally I would rather be able to see the results of the crimping, and thus accordingly like the types originally used. If you say that without the flashing ability they are inferior, I will stick with the new flex that I have rigged up and will stick with the live and neutral being insulated and the earth being uninsulated. My final attempt at crimping resulted in connections that I could not pull off but, hey, it is my mum's washing machine. I don't want to lose her, the mum rather than the Miele...

If you have a crimping plier for plastic coated crimps, use plastic coated crimps.

Red insulated female spades will fit.

When you have crimped it on give it a good solid tug, if it comes off your crimping tool isn't up to the job.

Uninsulated crimps require different crimping pliers.

I've got a few sets, one cost £40 and another £70 odd but you need the right tool for the crimps.