Extending wires behind cooker switch to move it a few centimetres...

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Hi all.

My sister wants her cooker switch moved just a centimetre up and to the right so it can be clear of the edge of her tiles. The switch was, weirdly, installed right on the edge of her tiles on two sides and the tiling trim was cut to fit it. No idea why they didn't put it slightly higher and over as it would have matched the other sockets.

It is a standard metal backbox that I plan to leave and just mount a new 47mm surface box with a new switch plate and fill and seal the gap around just the surface box.

Having had a look, I see that the wires are just too short and will not pass through the new surface box and reach the switch terminals.

It is 4mm cable on a 32A MCB on an RCD leg of the CU.

Can I use something like Spliceline connectors to extend these wires or will the inrush current pop the connector? It is feeding just an oven, no hob.

I do not have room to install a large connector block in the backbox as it's a 25mm one! (I have no idea how they managed to squeeze everything in in the first place...)

Your esteemed advice would be much appreciated as the management will not be pleased with the ideas of a new piece of surface trunking running down over her tiles and through the solid wood worktop...

Thanks all.

- Al
 
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Hi securespark.

I will try and remember to get pictures when I'm around there next.
 
Is the switch a square one (1 gang box) or a rectangle one (2 gang box)?

A rectangle one will give you more wiring space.

You have the flush metal 25mm box plus the new surface 47mm box to contain some 30amp connector blocks.
 
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Replacing a flush box with a surface one just to get it away from the tiles seems like a step backwards to me.
 
Use wago connectors rated to 32amp (make sure you get the ones that go to 6mm, as the standard ones are just that bit to tight at 4mm) and make an easy and nice way of extending.
 
Is the switch a square one (1 gang box) or a rectangle one (2 gang box)?

A rectangle one will give you more wiring space.

You have the flush metal 25mm box plus the new surface 47mm box to contain some 30amp connector blocks.

-- It's a single gang box otherwise I feel it would have been a bit easier to sort. So will any approved connector device marked rated as 32A/450VAC suffice? Wago/Spliceline/et-al? (Don't fancy choc-blocks...)

Replacing a flush box with a surface one just to get it away from the tiles seems like a step backwards to me.

-- It is far enough out of alignment compared to all the other sockets, etc. It niggles that sense of equilibrium and upsets the natural balance of the universe... (So I am given the impression of...)

Use wago connectors rated to 32amp (make sure you get the ones that go to 6mm, as the standard ones are just that bit to tight at 4mm) and make an easy and nice way of extending.

-- Thanks. I have the grey Wagos' and they have the larger holes in them than some I've seen/used before. I will dig them out.

Yes, but it sounds like it's annoyingly unsightly at the moment.

-- It certainly is as far as she is concerned. Me? I couldn't care less but it's not my house and kitchen...

Thank you all. You have answered my question and given me my options to just get this out of the way. Sometimes, turning off my hearing aids doesn't prevent "hearing" "reminders" to sort this out... :D

Will let you know how I get on. Thanks again!
 
Will it help fitting a 2 gang surface box over the 1 gang flush box?

May give you more places to obtain a fixing etc.

Then fit a 'vertical' rectangular switch.

Or even a cooker panel, which will give you an extra socket to use.

A PVC box will allow you to make holes in the back of it where you like, which may give you more scope.
 
Will it help fitting a 2 gang surface box over the 1 gang flush box?

May give you more places to obtain a fixing etc.

Then fit a 'vertical' rectangular switch.

Or even a cooker panel, which will give you an extra socket to use.

A PVC box will allow you to make holes in the back of it where you like, which may give you more scope.

-- I see your logic and it makes perfect sense. It's not an option this time as I have about 20mm of gap to get a screwdriver in with the current switch because of short wires.

The original switch was square and the preference is similar. I've already run through the options with her.

I'll get a cut off of 4mm and extend the wires and do what I've been instructed...

:cool:
 

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