Polyplumb UFH 4 wire actuator heads
- Thread starter DIYedboy
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Jeez Picasso................that's blown my brains out. I seem to remember in one of my many calls to the tech dept, I can recall getting them to talk me through pressing a load of menus on the boiler to switch off the internal clock and the programmer because at one point the prog stat wasn't calling for heat but the boiler was happily burning away n doin it's own thing.
It's all a mystery to me, suffice is to say my plumber said I wouldn't have had any problems like this with a wooster, an Intergas might be a rockstar of a boiler with only 4 movin parts.....................but it aint a lot of good if the electronics require one to be a brain surgeon to get the sucker working correctly.
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You don't have to be a brain surgeon, just reasonably competent, and RTFM, it's all in there
Just looked at the instructions and it looks like pin 1 on x3 is live when the boiler is switched on out of the box, I reckon you have switched it off using the built in programmer, as said take a minute and read the manual about putting the central heating back on.
Lads, I value your help cos let's face it, you boys know your stuff n I don't have a clue, so let's go back to basics, my boiler has it's own programmer (this is useless cos the boiler is in the cold garage n I'm not goin out there every time I want to change a time setting) so I have a T4 progstat in the hall, but that means the boiler therefore has 2 controllers that aint gonna work in harmony...........................how do I say to the intergas programmer 'you go to sleep forever cos the Honeywell T4 is gonna run the show'?
Muggles, I've read both manuals....................it don't help me
Muggles, I've read both manuals....................it don't help me
I have thrown the towel in!, pressing all the menus is a massive pain in the rear end and is not in the slightest CUSTOMER user friendly. An intergas engineer arrives on Thursday to end my woes.
As a customer, I HATE the touchpad menu pressing, the boiler may have the most advanced n reliable giblets inside the box, but I wish I had bought a Worcester Greenstar because the one I had in my last house worked easily with the Salus roomstat n we got along for 7 years without a single problem.
As a customer, I HATE the touchpad menu pressing, the boiler may have the most advanced n reliable giblets inside the box, but I wish I had bought a Worcester Greenstar because the one I had in my last house worked easily with the Salus roomstat n we got along for 7 years without a single problem.
Asked this earlier but didn't get a response - can you post a photo of the current wiring?
If you want your T4 to provide control of the heating, you need to set the internal programmer to ON. Have you done that?
If you want your T4 to provide control of the heating, you need to set the internal programmer to ON. Have you done that?
The menus are largely not designed to be used by the customer. The boiler should be set up to work correctly on the system it's installed on by the installer. All you should be expected to do is use your T4. It's not Intergas's fault if your installer didn't finish the job.
'Has he set it to on?' Muggles..............gotta be honest, I have no idea..................do you mean PERMANENTLY on? which is then only interrupted by the T4 saying 'it's too hot or time to shut down' a good question that I can't answer sadly.
The business of 'Opentherm' ............if the boiler is switched by 230v (as it needs to be to get the UFH switched, it seems that Opentherm won't work if one is switching 230v
The business of 'Opentherm' ............if the boiler is switched by 230v (as it needs to be to get the UFH switched, it seems that Opentherm won't work if one is switching 230v
Yes, the internal programmer needs to be permanently on, then your T4 will provide the control required. It is possible to have both OT and 230v switching connected, but one has priority over the other. Again, it would be good to see photos of your setup & wiring in order to be able to provide the best advice
Update; the boiler has an electronic fault, new part on order with the nice Intergas man that's why there wasn't 230v when there should have been. Then we must add in a faulty gas meter regulator (6milbar workin pressure whatever that means) n no flame detection devices on gas hob. Who would have thought one could have so much fun in just one day!!
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