Centaur fuse box still legal? how much to replace ?

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We have this fuse box in our property.It is a let property, and will need to pass an electrical safety check. Will it pass ? The tenants have not bothered to unscrew the lid, and broke it off. It is now held on with sticky tape. Is this a safety concern?
We are in Hampshire, how much would it cost to replace the fuse box?
Thanks

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If it was compliant when installed, then as regulations are not retrospective it remains compliant. It still though might be worth your while and more convenient to upgrade to a more modern one.
 
It does not comply with current regulations. But regulations are not retrospective. The fuse board has no earth leakage safety features built in. It really needs replacing, especially if you are renting out the property.

Cost to replace will depend on the state snd serviceability of the wiring installation. Guess about £300 just to replace with a compliant board. Assuming no other work is needed. You must use a registered electrician as this is notifiable work.
 
It does not comply with current regulations. But regulations are not retrospective. The fuse board has no earth leakage safety features built in. It really needs replacing, especially if you are renting out the property.

Cost to replace will depend on the state snd serviceability of the wiring installation. Guess about £300 just to replace with a compliant board. Assuming no other work is needed. You must use a registered electrician as this is notifiable work.
I agree with "Taylortwocities" BUT you could probably repair that cover using some of the many available "epoxy resin" products.
 
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@zdiy You should be aware that legislation is in place for rental properties to have their electrical installations inspected.
The regulations came into force on 1 June 2020, they apply to new tenancies from 1 July 2020 and existing tenancies from 1 April 2021.

So you MUST have an EICR carried out on the property, in the next few weeks. The report will tell you the fate of your fuse board.

Lots of information on this. Just Google landlords EICR. And see here
https://electrical.theiet.org/wirin...ivate-rented-sector-england-regulations-2020/
 
It is down to the whim of the inspector doing the EICR, it does comply with regulations, they clearly state the design date one the regulations after which point each set is used for the design, so not retrospective, however the EICR no longer has a code to tell you if it was a new installation it would comply or not, it has nothing really to do with the regulations, it has 7 codes.
  • C1 = Danger Present (FAIL)
  • C2 = Potentially Dangerous (FAIL)
  • C3 = Improvement Recommended.
  • FI = Further Investigation Required (FAIL)
  • N/V = Not Verified (Unable to verify)
  • N/A = Not Applicable.
  • LIM = Limitation (Not tested or inspected)
Non say does not comply with current edition, as to if it complies depends on design date, not the date installed, but date designed, so if it was designed to have an old Wylex fuse box, it still can.

But there was a change at some point, and installations in the control of an ordinary person need to use type tested equipment, I have not actually found this in the electrical regulations, so would assume in building regulations or heath and safety regulations, and some of these are retrospective. A type tested fuse board is called a consumer unit, although today they normally don't have fuses, but either a MCB (miniature circuit breaker) and a RCD (residual current device) or a combination of the two called a RCBO.

The big question is without them is it "Potentially Dangerous"? We have been told in every set of regulations I have read except for very latest, "Manufacturers' instructions shall be complied with." and "and shall take account of manufacturers' instructions." and "in accordance with the manufacturers recommendations" so when you install new equipment often the manufacturer states "Should be protected with a type A RCD" so after all I say about regulations not being retrospective, because modern equipment is used a RCD is still required by the regulations. As the user how do we don't know what dangers may exist if the manufacturers instructions are not followed?

I think it is highly unlikely to be "Potentially Dangerous" but it is down to the person doing the EICR. So until upgraded you stand the chance with each report that the inspector will consider it as "Potentially Dangerous".

The problem lies with rest of the installation, the installer should use both an insulation tester and a clamp-on ammeter to work out if a RCD is likely to trip, and based on the leakage measured with the clamp-on ammeter how many RCD's are required so less than 9 mA flows to earth through any one device and if the device trips, it will not present a danger, if one is unlucky enough to get a belt for a socket circuit, you clearly don't want lights to go out as well.

So fitting a RCD can cause further problems, so normally we test first before changing the fuse box, I was lucky I swapped my parents back in 2003 when RCD's were not required, only recommended for most circuits, so when it was found the leakage was too great, I was able to omit the RCD until the house was re-wired. Fitting a modern consumer unit is a design change, so once fitted current regulations come into play, so no option to return to non protected by RCD.

A type A curve B RCBO made by CP Fusebox is around £15, and a MCB around £2 and a RCD £20 (normal to fit 2) so for a 4 way box so it is £12 more expensive to have all RCBO it is simply not worth the hassle not to fit all RCBO's.

So parts for all RCBO with SPD around £140, half a day to fit it, but also need an EICR so I would think around £400 is the cheapest. Depends where you live, if fitting a better make, then the price Wilex RCBO is around £32 each the box with main isolator another £52 and a SPD £74 so it jumps to £254 for parts instead of £140. It is possible that it is considered you don't need a SPD (Surge protection device) but wanted to compare like with like. You can buy a populated BG consumer unit from Screwfix for £60, it does not have a SPD and it used two RCD's not RCBO's if you need to call an emergency electrician rather than wait until morning because the RCD will not reset that would quickly eat into the £80 saved.
 
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just had two Hager consumer (main and E7 for storage heaters) units replaced in a rental property with all rcbos at a cost of £650 &vat the sparky used Lewden boards and rcbos as they are about half the price of other makes.
easier to get it done due to distances involved(MILs old house miles away from me and covid) I think there were about 19 rcbos in total
 
Is this a house or ground floor flat where a socket might be used to supply equipment outside?
Is there an electric shower? (I assume not from the circuits - cooker, sockets, immersion, light?)
Is the supplementary bonding in the bathroom missing or incomplete?

If any of those is "yes" then most electricians would class C2 Potentially Dangerous without an RCD.

But it is not just about the consumer unit, the whole installation must be assessed. Do you have metal lighting fittings that aren't earthed? Etc.
 

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