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Very subjective, though!
Lighting issue
- Thread starter doog442
- Start date
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Then it will never work as the power supply is designed for halogens.
But that's not the only consideration. My daughter has a fitting [I imagine very much like OP] but with 7 'wire ball' shades, we couldn't find LED's which fitted in through the apeture and I carefully opened a gap in the wire to get the LED's in then close it up.
The limited LEDs we found that fitted in the shades looked horrible and going through that process several times we soon got a bigger transformer [failure being reason for change in the first place] and went back to halogens.
So I'm replacing with 1 to 1.5w LED's and will buy a LED driver to power them. Does anyone have a better way to join the wires for the seven lamps that hang from the pendant ? This is the original that I've cut away. They've just spliced each wire ,crimped them ALL together and encased the whole lot in heat shrink. You can see where the problem happened .
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A good old fashioned strip connector would be ideal.
It isn't straight forward as the cables from the lamps appear to be co-axial using the screen as a conductor.
Push in connectors will not accept braided screen strands.
If those leads are being kept then crimp ferrules on the screens and central conductors ( 14 ferrules ) together with terminal strips.
For what it is worth my opinion is that the existing lamps are almost certain to provide better light than any LED
Push in connectors will not accept braided screen strands.
If those leads are being kept then crimp ferrules on the screens and central conductors ( 14 ferrules ) together with terminal strips.
For what it is worth my opinion is that the existing lamps are almost certain to provide better light than any LED
with closer inspection yes they do look like a sort of coax style cable. weird! back to the choc bloc then
The cables are indeed co-axial. I've gone down the terminal strip route. I've picked up a 20w LED driver and ordered some 1.2w LEDS all in for £20. Happy to sacrifice light, to be fair its more a feature that hangs down over a not often used dining room table but can be seen from the rest of the room if you get my gist. That said the boss will have the ultimate say, so I'll keep the original transformer and bulbs
Thanks all for you help, I was initially ready to bin it until someone suggested otherwise further up the thread and then I saw the cost of replacing it was silly money so all good.
I think we were going for more like 3W to get the same sort of light level through the wire shades.The cables are indeed co-axial. I've gone down the terminal strip route. I've picked up a 20w LED driver and ordered some 1.2w LEDS all in for £20. Happy to sacrifice light, to be fair its more a feature that hangs down over a not often used dining room table but can be seen from the rest of the room if you get my gist. That said the boss will have the ultimate say, so I'll keep the original transformer and bulbs
Thanks all for you help, I was initially ready to bin it until someone suggested otherwise further up the thread and then I saw the cost of replacing it was silly money so all good.
Just a last post to thank everyone for their help and leave a result . From the mangled mess of burnt wire the light is back from the dead. The originals were 20w halogen. I replaced the transformer with an LED driver and fitted seven 1.2W LED's. I know its difficult to judge brightness from a picture but they've done the job. The driver was a tenner and the LED's £11 for nine.. I went for the 1.2w due to size as the fittings were only 10mm wide ...these were 9mm.
Although the LEDS look a clinical white the actual light they give out is a warmer white as you can see and probably just about right, any issues we have that corner lamp. Cheers.
Although the LEDS look a clinical white the actual light they give out is a warmer white as you can see and probably just about right, any issues we have that corner lamp. Cheers.
Thanks for the update.
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