six weeks, six visits, still no working boiler

The oil pump on your burner is capable of producing considerable suction.....more in fact than a blocked filter can hold back, in my strictly limited experience.
I don’t think you need a tiger loop unless the tank is lower than the boiler and aeration is a problem - which doesn’t seem to be an issue in this case.
John :)
 
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Tomswan said:
I did wonder whether it was possible to get a pre-heater in the boiler unit. I may have a look at that. This is actually an internal boiler that has been installed in an outbuilding (an unheated outbuilding) as opposed to a proper external boiler. Hopefully I can solve the problem - if this is the problem - by insulating exposed pipework.
Click to expand...

You can get an electric heating tape, which kicks in at certain low temperature. Run along the pipe and surrounded by insulation.
 
You know, I had completely forgotten this was a DIY forum. Given the level of expert advice on offer, and for which I am very grateful indeed, you would not have thought it. I guess the type of person who frequents a site like this is unusually self-reliant. Well, I intend to join the ranks, even if I never get stripes. The more I can learn not to have to rely on outside help the better I shall feel I think. My blood pressure will certainly thank me.
 
Have a look at ‘trace heating’......I’ve only used it on condensate drains but for sure there could be other applications!
John :)
 
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Burnerman said:
The oil pump on your burner is capable of producing considerable suction.....more in fact than a blocked filter can hold back, in my strictly limited experience.
I don’t think you need a tiger loop unless the tank is lower than the boiler and aeration is a problem - which doesn’t seem to be an issue in this case.
John :)
Click to expand...


Ah, so. Makes perfect sense. So the suction is dragging the oil through the blocked filter and bringing crap with the oil. Well, we shall see if a nice new clean filter sorts the problem.

Thanks to your help, and that of others, I have gone put insulation around the exposed copper fuel line inside the boiler room, and also around the pipe exiting the tank before it goes underground. Even if it only makes a couple of degrees worth of difference it might be enough in future.
I will also be getting the additives.
I suppose with the tiger loop I was after the warming effect it has on the oil. The video I saw said the oil circulates roughly 20 times around the loop before being burned, and each time it passes through the pump the friction from pump heats it.

However, I suppose if the wax crystallises out of the oil en route to the tiger loop all that can then happen is that the heat from the loop reintegrates the deposits, and from what I have read that is not 100 percent.
 
Burnerman said:
Have a look at ‘trace heating’......I’ve only used it on condensate drains but for sure there could be other applications!
John :)
Click to expand...


I will, thanks. And thanks again for the advice, it really has given me hope.
 
Finding this a problem occasionally with people choosing to have the premium heating oil. The additive combined with the increased levels of fame in kerosene causes the moisture and debris in the base of the tank to drawn in to solution. This causes the filters to get blocked much quicker. When the pump is sucking the oil it is fine until the suction pressure reaches about 0.4bar. above this figure it creates gassing mainly but can also cause it to emulsify ( looks like waxing). Also as the suction pressure increases if any joints are not sealed ( joints may not leak oil but can allow air entry) you can get air ingress
 
Uncontaminated 28 sec Kero should give no waxing problems above minus 20°. 35 sec Red however without additive will wax around minus 5°.
A clogged filter will usually make the oil pump scream due to the increased vacuum.
 
Interesting reading as I only very rarely do any work on oil boilers.

One obvious point regarding filters is always ask for the old filter when you get someone else to change it. I had a work colleague who had fuel problems with his car and it was traced by an expert to a " never changed " fuel filter. That was at a Peugeot Main Dealer !!!

We do not seem to know yet what effect changing the oil filter has had.

The trace heating does seem to be a probably good solution to ensuring the oil does not get too cold.

John, you have mentioned "Red Diesel", but the red colour is only a tax indication. My lateral thoughts also spread to a ( remote ? ) possibility that the supplier may have supplied/mixed/added a non coloured heavier and presumably cheaper grade of oil which is more susceptible to cold???
 
Hi Tony
Red diesel or gas oil has a redwood viscosity of 35 sec whereas kerosene for oil burners is rated at 28 sec - quite significantly thicker.
Farmers up in these parts must use an anti waxing additive for their tractor fuel, and I know that this fuel can contain 7% biodiesel or fame. I’ve no idea how much fame there is in burner kerosene though!
I do suspect that Tom has the heavier fuel in his tank but for the life of me I can’t recall what colour 35 second kero is......it’s so long since I’ve come across it for heating use.
John :)
 
No added colour as far as I know.

But I expect that Tom SHOULD have the 28sec oil.

But wonder if he may have ended up with the heavier oil perhaps due to unscrupulous traders!

Or even due to an accidental supplier mix up!
 
I said earlier that I have only been to a very few oil boilers. Three being new oil boilers at a Gym in Paddington. That was interesting because the installers were from Yorkshire and knew nothing about oil. So much so that the manufacturer refused to commission them or cover warranty repairs ( hence my being called by the installers )

But I had forgotten that I actually owned an installation with two oil Potty Diplomats for a couple of years until I replaced them with gas boilers.
 
D

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