Before I even begin this thread, I just want to state that I have no intention of doing this work myself! I'm not a qualified spark, and I will be getting one in. Part of the reason I'm asking the question is because I want to do some forward planning in terms of exactly where I want sockets, and the type of "visible" sockets and connectors I want to have on show, so want to know exactly what I'm talking about when I discuss with the spark. Ideally, all I'd like to see "on show" on each side of the kitchen on each splash back is 1x double gang socket and 1x 32amp DP switch.
Ok....so basically I've ordered a Neff Pyrolite built-in oven (rated to 16a) one one side of the kitchen, and an AEG 32a induction hob on the other side of the kitchen. The sockets I want to get are the MK Albany plus range, and in terms of isolation, I'd like to have one socket for isolation on either side of the kitchen next to new double-gang sockets to make everything nice and tidy and symmetrical!
I also want to account for future upgrades, and it seems like more and more appliances are moving from "hardwired" to plug in 13amp plugs, so I'd like to factor in potentially being ready for both and a later date.
So in my mind, in the CU I would have a 16amp RCBO for the oven and a 32amp RCBO for the Induction hob.
I'd have 6mm T&E run from each of these RCBO's to the MK Albany plus 32a DP switches on the countertops, and then from there have 6mm T&E running to dual 45amp cooker connection plates.
From there, on each of the dual cooker connection plates, I'd have 2.5mm T&E going to an un-switched 13amp socket (in this case wouldn't be used, as both appliances will be hardwired, but allows for future-proofing by just downrating the RCBO's) and then basically the Neff Oven and the Induction hob are then just hardwired into each cooker connection plate.
Like this....
Apart from that, It'll be an MK "grid" switch plate on the side wall (which will be part of the kitchen ring), with switches for the washing machine, dishwasher, fridge, cooker hood, & microwave..... with un-switched 13a sockets behind each appliance.
Can anyone see any issue with this? If I ask the electrician to do this, will there be any issues?
Ok....so basically I've ordered a Neff Pyrolite built-in oven (rated to 16a) one one side of the kitchen, and an AEG 32a induction hob on the other side of the kitchen. The sockets I want to get are the MK Albany plus range, and in terms of isolation, I'd like to have one socket for isolation on either side of the kitchen next to new double-gang sockets to make everything nice and tidy and symmetrical!
I also want to account for future upgrades, and it seems like more and more appliances are moving from "hardwired" to plug in 13amp plugs, so I'd like to factor in potentially being ready for both and a later date.
So in my mind, in the CU I would have a 16amp RCBO for the oven and a 32amp RCBO for the Induction hob.
I'd have 6mm T&E run from each of these RCBO's to the MK Albany plus 32a DP switches on the countertops, and then from there have 6mm T&E running to dual 45amp cooker connection plates.
From there, on each of the dual cooker connection plates, I'd have 2.5mm T&E going to an un-switched 13amp socket (in this case wouldn't be used, as both appliances will be hardwired, but allows for future-proofing by just downrating the RCBO's) and then basically the Neff Oven and the Induction hob are then just hardwired into each cooker connection plate.
Like this....
Apart from that, It'll be an MK "grid" switch plate on the side wall (which will be part of the kitchen ring), with switches for the washing machine, dishwasher, fridge, cooker hood, & microwave..... with un-switched 13a sockets behind each appliance.
Can anyone see any issue with this? If I ask the electrician to do this, will there be any issues?