Electrics in kitchen

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This has also been posted on the Screwfix community.

Attached two pics show a 'peninsular' in my kitchen with a raised 'backstand'. Backstand is former cavity wall.

Plan is to remove the backstand to floor level, extend worktop from 600mm to 900mm wide (i.e. to edge of pillar) and cantilever the back 300mm to make a breakfast bar.

Drawer units replaced with integral dishwasher. Fridge and freezer remain.

Question is what is best approach to electrics - current positions shown in image Front1?

Cavity wall will be replaced by an MDF decorative panel which will probably be fairly tight against the base units, so not much room behind and any sockets would have to be surface mounted.

Thought is to move the far right socket to one of the pillar faces, which is straightforward enough.

Two questions I have are:-

  1. Where can I put the switched fuse spur and what do I use to run the supply to the appliances?Thought is either to put the switch in the corner cupboard or mount it on one of the pillar faces, either above or beneath the cantilevered breakfast bar. What is neatest solution to then run the supply out of the switch, out of the wall and to the appliances?
  2. I want to put a pull-up/pop-up socket halfway along the worktop. It will be accommodated by a boxed section under the cantilever. Thought is to mount a single socket in the same section to plug the pull-up/push-up into. Again, would appreciate any thoughts for running supply from a spur, out of wall and along to this.
Hope I have made this clear.

Appreciate your helpful comments.
 

Attachments

  • Back1.jpg
    Back1.jpg
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  • Front1.jpg
    Front1.jpg
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I'd imagine the space behind the base units added to the thickness of the MDF panel will be sufficient to take a back box. If mounted up very high under the new worktop it won't show.
 
Thanks Sunray. Think it will.

What is best fitting to take cable out of wall - an outlet plate, then run cable in trunking on inside of panel?
 
Thanks Sunray. Think it will.

What is best fitting to take cable out of wall - an outlet plate, then run cable in trunking on inside of panel?
Unless it needs a joint where it exits the wall nothing is needed.

My daughter has almost the setup you are aiming for however only a freezer and its cable is lose laid under the units from the switch on the remains of the cavity wall:
upload_2021-3-1_11-38-29.png

I don't like it but it is very popular with kitchen fitters and I didn't change it when we refitted our kitchen.
 
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