Picanto rear shocker lower bolt damn tight on nut

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I'm on with the front end suspension, due to a broken spring, on the 2015 1.0 Picanto we have and thought I'd loosen the lower end of the rear shocks to test their health. The bolt is simply damn tight all the way off on the nut. Had to use 1/2" breaker bar to get it out half way so have left it dowsed in DW40 for 24 hours to ease off.

Its weird that a shocker bolt is so tight all the way. Wired brushed the bolt threaded end and DW40'd before starting but still damn tight.

Any Picanto owners had this bother? .... I suspect it'll be a new nut and bolt.
 
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It could be a distorted thread nut or tapered thread locking nut.
 
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It could be a distorted thread nut or tapered thread locking nut.

I'll find out in due course. No doubt if special purpose, will have to be replaced and the price for a new nut and bolt at the local Kia will be daft.
 
Which is tight....will the nut not spin off, or is the bolt tight to turn?
If its the latter it could be the bolt stuck in the steel shocker bush - and you don’t want that tearing out of the rubber.
John :)
 
Which is tight....will the nut not spin off, or is the bolt tight to turn?
If its the latter it could be the bolt stuck in the steel shocker bush - and you don’t want that tearing out of the rubber.
John :)

The bolt is easier to access so I'm turning that. If the bolt is seized in the bush, the lower end of the shocker can't be removed from the mount. Are the shocker bolts prone to seizing on Picantos?
 
They are prone to seizing on all makes, because the bolt shaft isn't lubed on assembly. Some systems have a welded on captive nut but if you can back yours off just a turn it should make things easier.
As far as I remember they are only flange nuts, not Simmons or a clenched type. I've seen me have to cut the things off if the shock bush spins :eek: (Suzuki Jimny)
John :)
 
.......... and to think I just wanted to unmount the lower end to see if the shocker is healthy.
 
I was there last week.
That is a bolt from a rear strut on a 2006 lacetti.
The bolt is the original, I split the nut with a hacksaw then opened it with a chisel. I got the "new" nut from a scrap Mazda. The joys of motoring. 20210302_203028.jpg
 
All done!

With a lot of DW40 sprayed on, the bolt came out. It was indeed caught on the bush which I could see turning once I had the inspection lamp on the job. The bush let go eventually and I got the bolt out with the help of vice grips behind the head to push it.

The bush is still snug in the rubber mount so must have an outer disc flange to keep it in place.

The shocker, after all that, is in perfect working order and the wear pattern on both sides is the same so I left the other side shocker alone.

Cleaned the bolt on the bench wire brush, spray greased it, leaving enough dry thread for the nut to get a grip on, then reattached the shocker to the mount, tightened and greased both ends of the bolt.

The nut is welded to the subframe so a lot of bother for anyone if the bolt decides to snap.



Thanks All for posting!
 
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By the way, my new SGS trolley jack is delightful to work with.
 
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