Water coming through window seal
- Thread starter Keitai
- Start date
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I think the idea is to put the sealant around window frame
Keitai, good evening.
Might be wrong, but?
If you enlarge the images posted of the mastic sealant at the top of the window? about 300.mm [or so] from the left hand side where the ladder is, the mastic looks like it has "peeled back" from the top edge of the window? And? there may even be small long gaps between mastic and window across the top of the window?
If so, replace the mastic, that top section of the window may be causing the problems??
Ken.
Might be wrong, but?
If you enlarge the images posted of the mastic sealant at the top of the window? about 300.mm [or so] from the left hand side where the ladder is, the mastic looks like it has "peeled back" from the top edge of the window? And? there may even be small long gaps between mastic and window across the top of the window?
If so, replace the mastic, that top section of the window may be causing the problems??
Ken.
1. Remove all the old clear sealant as best you can. It's not the end of the world if little bits remain in the voids.
2. Clean the edge of the pvc face to remove dirt/grease and to ensure best surface for new sealant to adhere to.
3. Apply new sealant, ensuring the bead you apply is thick enough to go over the pvc by a few mm. The stuff previously applied wasn't a thick enough bead.
4. Job done
Maybe buy something like this:
Dow DC796 PVCu Sealant 310ml White (toolstation.com)
And if you want hints & tips as to the best way to apply, Google and YouTube are your friends
2. Clean the edge of the pvc face to remove dirt/grease and to ensure best surface for new sealant to adhere to.
3. Apply new sealant, ensuring the bead you apply is thick enough to go over the pvc by a few mm. The stuff previously applied wasn't a thick enough bead.
4. Job done
Maybe buy something like this:
Dow DC796 PVCu Sealant 310ml White (toolstation.com)
And if you want hints & tips as to the best way to apply, Google and YouTube are your friends
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Bought the sealant u recommended. What's the best way to remove the old stuff? Stanley, plastic scraper then meths and finish with fairy for any grease?1. Remove all the old clear sealant as best you can. It's not the end of the world if little bits remain in the voids.
2. Clean the edge of the pvc face to remove dirt/grease and to ensure best surface for new sealant to adhere to.
3. Apply new sealant, ensuring the bead you apply is thick enough to go over the pvc by a few mm. The stuff previously applied wasn't a thick enough bead.
4. Job done
Maybe buy something like this:
Dow DC796 PVCu Sealant 310ml White (toolstation.com)
And if you want hints & tips as to the best way to apply, Google and YouTube are your friends
You might find most of the old stuff comes out in strips if you pull quite gently. Then yeah, whatever you have to hand that can get the worst of the remainder out and off. Obviously don't use anything on the surface of the upvc that might scratch it, however looking at your pics there's hardly any sealant on the actual upvc? Things like a razor used at a shallow angle will get most of it off. Don't use meths, just warm soapy water will do to get grease off and dry fully before applying new silicon. Just remember to ensure the gap between the window frame and the brickwork is fully covered with the new bead.
Do it tomorrow . Bit if rain tonight shoukdnt be a problem I guess?
Ideally you want the area to be dry and for there to have been no rain overnight. Certainly, if on the day you choose to do it the brickwork etc is still damp, leave it until another day.
Do u think gap is too wide so that's why previous guy couldn't cover and seal properly? How I get round this?
Just cut bit out. It's about 13mm. 30cm from left side.
Just spoke to someone he said cut the silicon further down. See picture so comes out thicker at angle as well. I think some more tubes. 13mm thick at least and deep
Last edited:
Hi. Remember you're only sealing the gap between the window frame and the concrete section immediately beside it, not a humungous bead that runs from the plastic to the brickwork. Apologies if you were aware of that, just thought I should point it out with you mentioning 30mm
The silicon you've bought can easily handle gaps of circa 15mm. For what it costs, it's always better to have a tube spare than to run out before you've finished the job, so do rough calcs based on the bead size you're running. Remember you don't have to go a ridiculous amount over the plastic, just make sure the edge of it is covered by a few mm. Depending on the size of the gap, you might want to consider packing it with joint packing foam strips. However based on the pics you've shown I'm not sure this is required.
Here's the data sheet, have a read of the joint section, that should help. I've also included a link to a usage calculator and a link for backer rod if you need it.
1variation1 (constructionsealants.co.uk)
Construction Calculators | Dow Inc.
Search - backer rod (sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk)
The silicon you've bought can easily handle gaps of circa 15mm. For what it costs, it's always better to have a tube spare than to run out before you've finished the job, so do rough calcs based on the bead size you're running. Remember you don't have to go a ridiculous amount over the plastic, just make sure the edge of it is covered by a few mm. Depending on the size of the gap, you might want to consider packing it with joint packing foam strips. However based on the pics you've shown I'm not sure this is required.
Here's the data sheet, have a read of the joint section, that should help. I've also included a link to a usage calculator and a link for backer rod if you need it.
1variation1 (constructionsealants.co.uk)
Construction Calculators | Dow Inc.
Search - backer rod (sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk)
Hi. Remember you're only sealing the gap between the window frame and the concrete section immediately beside it, not a humungous bead that runs from the plastic to the brickwork. Apologies if you were aware of that, just thought I should point it out with you mentioning 30mm
The silicon you've bought can easily handle gaps of circa 15mm. For what it costs, it's always better to have a tube spare than to run out before you've finished the job, so do rough calcs based on the bead size you're running. Remember you don't have to go a ridiculous amount over the plastic, just make sure the edge of it is covered by a few mm. Depending on the size of the gap, you might want to consider packing it with joint packing foam strips. However based on the pics you've shown I'm not sure this is required.
Here's the data sheet, have a read of the joint section, that should help. I've also included a link to a usage calculator and a link for backer rod if you need it.
1variation1 (constructionsealants.co.uk)
Construction Calculators | Dow Inc.
Search - backer rod (sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk)
Got this profiling kit. I'll use one after gunning in then run wet finger over
If you achieve a good finish with the kit you've bought, don't bother running a wet finger over, leave it as is
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Would Sealing it and then putting a upvc Quadrant trim around the window not look better , also would act as an extra layer of protection
I'd say the finishing tools he's using should give a good enough finish, even more so given it's first floor. I get your point re quadrant, however again given it's an upper window, to me it's not required for looks or protection if the bead's thick enough.
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Personally think the people who originally fitted should have put quadrant round, no need for thick beads of silicone like that
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