Loft lights.

D

D4N1EL

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Hi,
I’m fitting 2 LED batten lights in my loft. My plan is to have 1 cable coming from a power supply (plug) in to a junction box then 2 cables out, 1 to each light.

I have plenty of cable, 1mm 3 core flex and 1mm twin + earth. I’m inclined more to use the twin + earth because I already have a load of clips to clip it all up neatly, but that’s the only reason. Would I be better using 3 core flex?

if I was to use 3 core flex, what size clips would I buy?

The power lead will run from a plug to the junction box, should I use 3 core flex for the who lead (because I’ve never seen a plug fitted to twin + earth) or should I use twin + earth, fit another junction box and make the last part with the plug 3 core flex?

Thanks in advance for any help, advice or pointing out any errors.

Dan.
 
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I like the idea of a switch, but don’t want the light left on by mistake, hence why I’m going for a plug and extension lead.

I haven’t looked at the lights yet, I bought them and put them straight in the loft out the way, that is a good point though about the glands, they are IP65 so I suspect they will have some sort of gland on.

I didn’t think to check on the cable or the packaging for the cable size, I assumed they would all be pretty much the same. I’ll have to climb in the loft to check out the lights so I’ll check the cable size while I’m up there.

Thanks.
 
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I would use TandE between the lights
And then flex into the first light near the hatch.

Well it’s what I did
 
chivers67 said:
I'd tend to run it in T&E & put a switch near the loft hatch but it depends on the light fittings as some have a small stuffing glands on entry and the Flex might be best for that?

Can only advise on the clips if the exact cable size is supplied ? https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-round-cable-clips-4-5mm-white-pack-of-100/14861
Click to expand...

The flex cable I have is 1.5mm not 1mm as first thought. The lights only have 2 wire connections, no earth. Should I buy some 2 core flex just leave the earth unconnected in case I need it at a later date?
 
Leave The Earth Unconnected. Some would say snip it off, as the chances of the Lights requiring an Earth in the future are pretty unlikely.
 
The cable from the plug must be flex, not T+E.

The cable after the (fixed) junction box or first light can either type of cable.

I would connect the earth wire in the plug. And all the earth wires everywhere else can be joined together in a 6 amp connector block or similar.

When you decide in the future to hardwire all this into the lighting circuit, you will be glad you didn't chop the earth wires off.
 
sparkwright said:
The cable from the plug must be flex, not T+E.

The cable after the (fixed) junction box or first light can either type of cable.

I would connect the earth wire in the plug. And all the earth wires everywhere else can be joined together in a 6 amp connector block or similar.

When you decide in the future to hardwire all this into the lighting circuit, you will be glad you didn't chop the earth wires off.
Click to expand...

I have bought a 30amp junction box, does it matter that it’s 30amp and a lot higher then 6amp?

If I did hardwire these lights in, where would I wire the spare Earth’s to?

Lastly, why do I need a 6amp fuse? The lamps I have are 18w (I never said in the original post) from using an online calculator, that is 0.75 miliamps, 2 lamps = 1.5amps.

Don’t get me wrong, I am not questioning your knowledge and expertise, I’m asking purely because I don’t know.
 
D4N1EL said:
0.75 miliamps, 2 lamps = 1.5amps.
Click to expand...
Umm 1.5milliamps!

The fuse is to protect the cabling, etc. Not the Lamps Themselves. 6A Is the usual protection for lighting circuits.
As long as your junction box can handle more than 6amps then all good.

The earths need to be connected together to a terminal in your junction box. Connect to the downlights earth terminal if there is one.
 
I thought 100 milliamps would make 1 amp, I probably should of googled that.

Thanks for the advice (and education).

It’s likely that these will be getting hard wired in, probably when I next decorate the landing (and cut a hole in the wall to fix wires to the switch). I’m assuming I can just tap into one of the other lights for power?
 
D4N1EL said:
I’m assuming I can just tap into one of the other lights for power?
Click to expand...
It depends on where you “tap in”. You’ll obviously need a permanent live and neutral. Some of the wiring to the other lights will only be live when they are turned on.
 
All lights are up and work great from a plug socket. I looked into it more and kinda understand how the lighting ring main works. I suspect the right way to wire it in, would be to add another junction box and wire it in like any other light? Anyway that is something I may consider in the future.

I had more lights to fit over the weekend, this time in the kitchen, nightmare!

Thanks for the help and advice.
 
D

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