Burner Lock out (Still)

Sounds like too much secondary air for cold start.
Really needs someone there with an oil pressure gauge connected to prove if its a fuel problem.
 
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I've had someone out twice. I think he's as miffed as me...
 
Seems very likely that if an oil gauge is put on the oil pump that you will see that perhaps this problem can be solved by installing a tiger loop this will get
rid of excess air and hopefully solve the problem and if done right will keep the oil pump in flood condition so as to make sure the burner fires up first time. Bob
 
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Terry. I can find out the nozzle size, he just replaced the one that had been working fine since the last service but I don't know the exact readings he got from his flu/gas analyser. He did mention he was struggling to get the air 'low enough' as the air adjuster was set to its minimum setting.
 
What size is the nozzle.? Also Boiler output. Minor 1 burners do not normally need modification above 50000 btu.
Below that a low output backplate and tube were available, But if the burner was supplied with the Boiler it should be correct Unless it is oversized and down rated.
 
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I can't get the nozzle size until I go round there Saturday. The thing is, this set up has been working and serviced regularly for probably 18 years. Nothing in the set up has been changed. I will forward the nozzle size ASAP
 
Can you confirm two things, if possible?
1) are the baffles and flueways in the boiler clear?
2) check for any air leak between the burner flange and the boiler.....look for soot / rust deposits in that area.
John :)
 
Seems very likely that if an oil gauge is put on the oil pump that you will see that perhaps this problem can be solved by installing a tiger loop this will get
rid of excess air and hopefully solve the problem and if done right will keep the oil pump in flood condition so as to make sure the burner fires up first time. Bob
It has worked without problem for many years so a Tigerloop should not be needed Bob !!
 
Can you confirm two things, if possible?
1) are the baffles and flueways in the boiler clear?
2) check for any air leak between the burner flange and the boiler.....look for soot / rust deposits in that area.
John :)

A 20 year old Warmflow without a few soot and rust deposits would be a difficult beast to find !!!:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
I can confirm, The whole flu and baffles were completely brushed, scraped and vaccumed clean on the first visit by the engineer in Early January 2021 when this problem started. He then checked and changed the oil pump, nozzle and optical sensor. The boiler was then checked for correct combustion. He did mention then, he was struggling to get the air 'low enough' but got the burner running and left happy. All worked well for a few days, then this, first start off the timer issue started. It starts and runs trouble free until the second timed start in the evening, when it fails to start and locks out....
 
I'm still with the overaired camp. Many Minor 1 burners run at minimum setting, particularly if only fitted with 0.5 nozzles or thereabouts. Full spec of boiler and combustion settings etc are needed.
Once started, as the day gets warmer, then the setting is less critical.
Is this a balanced flue boiler?
 
I'm still with the overaired camp. Many Minor 1 burners run at minimum setting, particularly if only fitted with 0.5 nozzles or thereabouts. Full spec of boiler and combustion settings etc are needed.
Once started, as the day gets warmer, then the setting is less critical.
Is this a balanced flue boiler?

Is there a fookin echo in here !!:whistle:;)
 
I think the nozzle is a 0.50 60° EH but would need to confirm
 

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