Cutting a laminate worktop

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BloodAndBandages

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I decided to cut our laminate worktop with a circular saw, since it's an end that will just butt up against a corner. It was long enough to allow me a few practice cuts, but on the third one it came to an abrubt halt as the blade became blunt and overheated.

So I went to Screwfix to get another blade, which I used to make the final cut, but it also got stuck about 2/3 of the way through - the blade doesn't cut any more and just overheats and buckles, so I'm very annoyed. The squint cut can be hidden though.

So should I just stick to using a router to cut through a worktop? I will need to make other cuts that are precise as they will be forming a join in corners. The worktop has a square edge so I think a mason's mitre is not necessary.

I'm surprised a circular saw blade can't handle this though. I set it to a slow speed - maybe I should set it to faster and just let it rip?
 
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Are you supporting the main worktop and the end being cut off as well. This can take 3 or 4 identical height trestles, or two trestles and a willing helper. Sounds like you might not be supporting the work properly and that the offcut is trapping your blade.

What diameter and tooth count is your blade? What make? And what power is the saw? What do you mean by "set it to a slow speed"? Are you using dust extraction on the saw? I can cut worktop with a 165mm cordless circular saw (brushless) and a 40t blade, albeit slowly
 
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OP did say he was "...surprised that a circular saw blade can't handle this though".
 
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Thanks for the replies!

It's definitely a circular saw - it's a mains powered one from Lidl (I guess that will displease the purists!) and it came with two blades - one for rough cuts and one for fine cuts. I was using the fine one until it went blunt, so I went and got another one from Screwfix:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-multi-material-tct-blade-165-x-20mm-18t/507hg

It didn't even make one cut before it overheated and warped!

I'm only trimming a few inches off one end, so it's not the weight of the offcut. I've set it at a low speed as I thought that would be better to make a neat cut.

I'm not sure what power it is exactly, but it's certainly powerful enough to turn the blade.

I have the worktop outside so I'm not using a dust collector.
 
BloodAndBandages said:
Thanks for the replies!

It's definitely a circular saw - it's a mains powered one from Lidl (I guess that will displease the purists!) and it came with two blades - one for rough cuts and one for fine cuts. I was using the fine one until it went blunt, so I went and got another one from Screwfix:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-multi-material-tct-blade-165-x-20mm-18t/507hg

It didn't even make one cut before it overheated and warped!

I'm only trimming a few inches off one end, so it's not the weight of the offcut. I've set it at a low speed as I thought that would be better to make a neat cut.

I'm not sure what power it is exactly, but it's certainly powerful enough to turn the blade.

I have the worktop outside so I'm not using a dust collector.
Click to expand...
That blade is not suitable for fine cutting,it also states only suitable for Evolution saws,you need a better blade to get good cuts in laminate and also better using a faster speed.
 
i used this on a Cicular saw and same make on a mitre saw - https://www.screwfix.com/p/freud-tct-circular-saw-blade-165-x-20mm-40t/5505j
gave an excellent finish on laminated flooring , however last year i was told on here about saxtonblades and have used those now - again very good

But I'm just a DIYer and not trade, so see what trade recommend

See jobandknock comments
What diameter and tooth count is your blade? What make? And what power is the saw? What do you mean by "set it to a slow speed"? Are you using dust extraction on the saw? I can cut worktop with a 165mm cordless circular saw (brushless) and a 40t blade, albeit slowly
Click to expand...

As asked how is the worktop support
the blade doesn't cut any more and just overheats and buckles,

but on the third one it came to an abrubt halt as the blade became blunt and overheated
Click to expand...
 
The Evo blades are a jack if all trades (but master of none). Erbauer, Silverline and Toolpak blades are all cheap carp - avoid if you want decent cuts and sufficient life! To cut worktops on a 165mm saw you need something like 48 to 60 teeth, ATB (alternate top bevel) or TCG (triple chip grind). I concur with the suggestion to look at Saxton - just make sure that your blade is thicker than the riving knife on the saw by 0.5mm or more. Most of the 165mm saw blades I have come across have a 20mm bore but I'm not sure what your saw uses

The vacuum cleaner is primarily meant to extract waste from the cut, thus reducing the possibility of binding in the cut, but delivers other advantages such as helping your lungs and keeping the work area clean

I am trade and have used Saxton blades for a while (albeit not exclusively), and they are OK. From my point of view they don't have as many resharpenings in them as, say, Bosch, Freud or DW blades, but I doubt that many DIY woodworkers will be that concerned about lifespan
 
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20210403_102314.jpg
 
they are 190mm diameter with a 20mm bore - 48Tooth and 24Tooth

But as JobAndKnock said
just make sure that your blade is thicker than the riving knife on the saw by 0.5mm or more.
Click to expand...
Kerf
 
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