Supporting worktop span (1.4m), no units below.

We have just had our back porch demolished and made larger. We are still waiting for the final screed to be put on the floor, but this is effectively a utility room.

What we have now is a U shaped recess, in which I want to place a worktop.

We have 2 plain red-brick walls (left end and back), and an exterior textured house wall (gravel-like texture, really uneven). on the right.

The dimensions of the worktop are to be 1400 x 475 mm, thickness has yet to be decided, as is the height from the floor as we don't have the floor in yet

My plan is currently to screw 2x1 battens to the wall. 3 screws at 100 mm centres at each end, and 5 screws at 300 mm centres along the back.

Ideally, I would not like a central support at the front, but realistically, I think I might be pushing it. Load wise will be quite a bit. There is a vented tabletop tumble drier with a 3 kg capacity and a tabletop dishwasher, plus other sundries to go on top. A full-size washing machine below.

Firstly, are the battens big enough and screwed in in enough places?

Secondly, if I were to run a horizontal support rail across, near the front, would that be enough?

And if so, what would be the best to minimise thickness? Could I use a hanging rail from a wardrobe for example?

Maybe a stupid question but why so much stuff on the worktop and nothing underneath?

You could fit a support under the worktop front. I have used a matching curved top upstand glued and screwed under the front of a worktop to add strength.
On the same job, I used speedframe 1" which is square steel tube and nylon premade corners. Simply a metal frame slightly shallower than the depth of the worktop resting on wooden supports, if your backwall is bumpy you could scribe the worktop in or use a disc cutter to create a small horizontal channel.

Or add a central metal leg

Previously there wasn't sufficient space to have 2 full-size appliances side by side, but there is now. However, we're not going to replace the appliances we have until we need to.

The backwall isn't bumpy, it's one of the short ends.

A leg is the last resort, but I may have to bite the bullet and go for it, in which case I would want the narrowest profile possible.

But I can't measure for a leg until we have a floor.

Side is easier. I had to do a slight cut in a wall when the worktop was a tiny bit too long and I thought that keeping the ends finished was better than exposing the inner part. You could carefully cut a horizontal line the correct width/ height and tuck the worktop in.

Leg wise, a bit of 2x2 would do for the moment. With some packers if needed and worry about it later

You could use 2x2 on the sides, cut short so they can't be seen. Then cut a 1" deep slot in each side piece near the front and run a steel tube between the sides, located in the slots as support. Less hassle than a speedframe square and cheaper.

Steel tube set back from the front edge so it can't be seen and if it looks as though its drooping when finished add a central leg. Their are purpose made ones similar to a hanging rail but designed for the job.

Alternatively battens at both sides and back and a kitchen end panel next to the washing machine leaving room for new appliances as they get changed.

You can get chromed and black painted 25 x 25mm steel tube with knock-on connectors, corners, tees, etc to build such a frame as @Old Salt is suggesting. Used them beneath (pub) bar backs before now and they are quite unobtrusive. The only extra things you need to deal with them are a hacksaw and a small file to clean any sharp edges ip

As you have a washing machine under the worktop, you might as well have a kitchen end panel next to it - say 18mm plywood, painted to match.

Notch7 said:

As you have a washing machine under the worktop, you might as well have a kitchen end panel next to it - say 18mm plywood, painted to match.

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It's an option, but it all depends on the height as I want the countertop right up against the window board, but I won't know the actual available height until the floor is in.

Also go for a thick worktop, (38mm rather than 28 or 32), as this will bow less than a thin one.
If you have router you could possibly rout out a groove on the underneath of the worktop to, say, about 8 or 10mm to slot the support bar in. In fact, you may be able to do this with 2 or 3 support bars to give added strength. Set the front one back so it's less visible and set the others accordingly. If you have a back support on the wall you won't need to go too far back.